BCM

Thanks. I'll plan on everything new between the head and the hose. I have used Nautique parts and SkiDim for various parts with good luck, but I do like to find things through the local parts store when possible. Bolt issues are normal. I'm getting started on a complete engine overhaul on a '47 Ford tractor (2n), that has some bolt issues... @rico - my brother dropped a bolt in the intake manifold of his truck when he was 16 while replacing the manifold for a smog legal one. Didn't know where the bolt when until he started it. It was amazing how many cylinders pieces of the bolt made it in to. Are you suggesting there is a market for used manifolds? Would have never thought about selling manifolds with holes in them.

So, I bought a 98 CC this winter. I did a pretty good inspection before bringing it home. But, I missed the little bit of JB weld on the bottom of the exhaust manifold. Its time for new manifolds. Do people generally replace the riser as well at this point? Besides manifold and gaskets is there anything else I need (e.g. my old Ford diesel required needed new bolts when pulling the old manifold)? Anything I should be checking while I have the manifolds off? Any help would be appreciated. Has anyone had any luck sourcing manifolds through an auto parts store? My local Napa is pretty good with my tractor and pickup stuff, haven't tried boat parts. Thanks.

Re-mapping the course is super quick and easy. Idle to entrance gates, push arrow. Drive to other side, idle through gates, push other arrow, done. I ski at a private site and have to re-map every month or so. The two promo boats (ZO) and other SG boats have to do the same, maybe wobbles in the earths axis, or aliens, ancient aliens? When I skied on a public lake I would usually idle down course before anything at speed to be sure there wasn't anything dangerous in the course (like logs or fisherman), great time to map the course. I would also have to re-calibrate the baseline RPMs for every speed (28-36) every few weeks due to changes in water temp, depth, and/or cleanliness. I don't miss PP Classic...

Toe of back boot bolted to big plate, heal of back boot bolted to small plate (not main plate), back of small plate has springs. Or at least thats how my old Powershells were. I had issues with alignment of the bolt/spring set up, if it wasn't right the plate would bind on the little posts and wouldn't move much or it would be jerky. I struggled with the walking boot for about a decade, no amount of bolt tightening helped. I had to increase the friction between boot and plate.

on the front side of the dash, wire comes up between fiberglass and plastic dash piece then velcro holds it just above the joint. Works well on the closed bow.

I picked up a 98 CC this past winter that already had Star Gazer installed. For slalom it was pretty well dialed in, just had to calibrate the baselines again and it was great. I calibrated the jump baselines as well. I have been trying to get back into jumping and myself and the driver feel like the switch is acting a little funny. Possibly coming on late and/or shutting off early. I understand much of this is controlled by the x8d and x8u settings. Being that I haven't jumped much in about 8 years and I am the only jumper on my lake, we are having a hard time figuring out these settings. I tested the switch and it is functioning properly. I'm currently jumping about 90ft with a single wake cut, 5ft, 35mph. Working my way back to 3/4 cuts. Does anybody have an idea on starting points for the x8d and x8u settings for a 98 CC with PCM GT40? The closest guidance I could find was for 05 promo boats, PP recommended x8u=85 and x8d=250, for 5.7l boats. Are there any other settings (besides RTB/fast second segment and letter) that may alter how the switch acts when jumping less than 120ft?

I really enjoy the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, the geology in the area is unique with the occasional fossil. The painted hills in the same area are also a favorite stop of mine. The greater Bend area has some great hikes as well.

I have sourced the carpet from etrailer, west marine and nautique parts. All about the same. Go with new boards. If you use carriage bolts, buy new stainless hardware. Counter sink the carriage bolts. Go prepared to cut the old bolts off. The Malibu trailer I did last season was 2x6 and so is my CC, regular 2x6, no bevels. I like the idea of a second layer on top, I will try that next round (in a few weeks). Make sure you buy enough rolls to prevent seams. I use stainless staples, found on amazon pretty cheap. I try to wrap the carpet around and notch it at the bolt holes so that it will be pinched between the bunk and mount so that if all of my staples failed, the carpet would stay on.

@Stickman - I had to cut the old harness off, but all of the wire colors matched, real easy to put back together. I didn't try to look for an adapter or deck that would plug in. I found a good deal on a deck and have an abundance of butt connectors. Thanks @Wish - That will be a big help. @pkreush - A "Chilton's" style manual would be nice, ideally a full service manual similar to the one I had for my old Ford pickup would be better, step by step instructions for everything from oil change to motor rebuild. The link @Wish sent will help a lot.

@Fast351 - I am mostly looking for mechanical repair references, including cooling system and wiring. I had the dash apart a few weeks ago (new stereo install) and there are lots of wires back there, but its pretty simple. Engine wiring would be helpful. Its all easily traceable and not too difficult to figure out, but I would rather spend 10 minutes in a reference manual than 2 hours figuring it out.

@Jody_Seal - I had stumbled upon those, I was hoping for a little more. The bakesonline.com that @oldjeep mentioned has a PCM manual that looks like it is more what I am looking for. However, I would love to have something that covered the entire boat. Thanks.

Anyone have a source for a repair manual for a 98 CC? I have found a PDF of the original owners manual but it doesn't give me much. I am looking for things like wiring schematics, reference numbers for plugs, filters, etc. Cooling system schematics, etc. Something along the lines of the old Chilton car manuals would be nice. I once had a dealer service manual for my old Ford pickup, that would be ideal (step by step instructions for everything). No big repairs planned yet, just lots of little things with the anticipation of bigger things down the road. Thanks.

@mwfillmore - PM me, I can put you in touch with the folks at New Melones. Not sure if they have a picture of the sign, but I bet they have info on the language used. @Hallpass - New Melones is funded and maintained by a the New Melones Waterski Club. The course is open to the public (requirement of the BOR). I believe Nacimiento had some language that would not have been applicable on many other lakes. The lake is managed by counties (its a weird setup) and they were able to get an enforceable no wake zone inside the course area. That was not the case with signage or enforcement at New Melones.

I would have been all over this project before I bought my 98 CC this winter...

I'm working out of Oly a few days a week and doing the hotel thing in the evenings. You might be able to convince me to come out to Graham. Lets see, sit in the crummy hotel by myself OR head out to the lake in someone else's boat... It would have to be a weekday evening. I'm currently injured and won't be skiing for a bit, but could drive and have helped coach many people in their first few seasons. I also have a few days in Enumclaw coming up in the next month or so. PM me and I will get you my contact info.

@oldjeep - filling the boat is a last resort... Packing arrived today, should have it in this weekend. Rain on the way and an ankle sprain, so it may be a few weeks before I get it back in the water. @slow - given some of the other short cuts I noticed with the PP install I will be looking for that speedo tube...

@6balls - I hope I can stand on my head and re-pack without pulling the tank, but if not I guess it gives me a chance to clean the outside of the tank and back of the hull... I would like the adjustable rudder, but I can't justify the cost at this point. @oldjeep - I will have to check tracking fin screws and platform brackets. My plan is to re-pack and then run the motor out of water (with water in cooling system). Running out of water will help identify cooling/exhaust leaks. The re-packing should eliminate that variable. If I still can't figure it out, my next plan of action is to put some water in it and see where it comes out. If it is something like a loose bracket, I figure it it comes in, it should come out... I don't think the majority is coming from the drive shaft, I adjusted the packing the other day and it leaked, but not enough to be the only source of water. Though with the old packing material I had two options, fire hydrant or barely dripping and they were about 1/4 turn apart. I haven't pulled the rear floor piece to inspect rudder packing with the boat in the water.

@rodltg2 - Thanks - I edited the title... I will be ordering the Gore Tex packing material later today. If I pull the muffler box to inspect it will likely make getting to the rudder packing a little easier. It can't be too much more head standing than pulling the steering cable through the hole under the bow... I heard of the muffler box leak after my last trip to the lake. I was planning on checking bilge water temp during my next trip. Grind trailing (rear) edge on left (passenger) side. There is a similar boat (99 I think) at my lake with the adjustable rudder, it points right (I believe). It would make sense to remove material on the opposite side. This is taking me back to college physics... @Orlando76 - I'm looking for green. I am sure I can find fabric in the greater Portland area at a good price. I'll PM you regarding the top, I may have an easy way to transport it. Thank you for the quick responses.

I picked up a new to me 98 CC a few months ago and have been getting things sorted out this spring. It was a great deal, but there are some minor repairs in order. The interior is a little rough, but mechanically it is in good shape. I just replaced the steering cable (not exactly a fun task) and it drives great, but has zero pull. Unfortunately it doesn't have the adjustable rudder. I know my ski partners will be much happier pulling me with a loaded rudder. I can't justify the $650 for an adjustable rudder. I have heard different things about which side of the rudder to file/grind. Leading edge or trailing edge? Drivers side or passenger side (of boat, not car)? I do a lot of metal work and am competent with a file/angle grinder and know that less is more. My plan once I figure out which edge is one pass with the grinder then test drive. The boat looks to be taking on a fair amount of water. I am ordering prop shaft packing this week. I was looking at the Gore Tex GFO material. Thoughts? How about rudder packing? The boat has 650 hours on it and I assume the rudder packing hasn't been changed. Does it require removal of the fuel tank or can you make it happen with long arms? Any other typical problem spots for water intrusion? After about 3 sets I have to run the bilge. A friend recently had a cracked muffler box which I plan on checking as well as all hoses. The boat has no top. I have been looking around and found a range of prices from about $300-$1000. Does anyone have a suggestion on a shop in the greater Portland OR area? Olympia? How about online? My only concern with online is shipping may be a bit pricey. I would really like to come in around $500 or less. Thank you.

@yardsale - I work in upland areas away from water. Most of what we utilize requires a 25-50+ft buffer from water. I have very little experience with herbicides approved for use over open water or the weeds which grow in lakes. The link below may be a good starting point. Also, I would look into any Agricultural Extension program through your states university system (not sure what state you are in). They may be able to point you in the right direction. In states where irrigation ponds are common this is a big issue in the ag community and the extension programs often have people who can help. https://lakerestoration.com/t-milfoil-control.aspx

Herbicides are not one size fits all. The active ingredients are developed and labeled (approved) for specific purposes. The active ingredient in your standard "Round Up" is Glysophate, Ground Clear utilizes Glysophate+Imazapyr. The Imazapyr acts as a pre emergent. Round up sells products with the same active ingredients. I buy my herbicide based upon the active chemical and what I want to control (and where). I believe Diquat can be sprayed near/over water. I don't believe that is the case with Glysophate or Imazapyr. I prefer Glysophate+Imazapyr when I want to control currently growing weeds and want to control future weed growth (generally up to a year) or hard to kill things (e.g. black berries). Under broadleaf trees or areas that I plan to re-plant I use Glysohate only. I don't care about brand, I buy the active chemical at the best deal. I generally purchase at the local farm supply store. Mix based upon label and utilize a back back sprayer. ALWAYS FOLLOW THE LABEL!!! Some of these chemicals are relatively harmless, some are pretty bad. Some can be sprayed over water, some require a large buffer because they can do bad things in water. My advice: Do a little research on what you trying to kill. READ THE LABEL. Buy based upon active chemical. READ THE LABEL. Don't worry about brand names. Follow the label. If you are dealing with something stubborn, invasive exotic species, or a relatively large area I would consider looking into your local Agriculture Extension program, they may be able to give some expert guidance on the species you are trying to control and any state or local regulations. For reference: I oversee a program which utilizes areas and ground applied herbicide on over 10,000 acres a year.

@oldjeep - I may pack a few. I may also stage a can nearby. I don't like having a leaky plastic tank around. The MSR bottles seal tight and pour clean and you can leave them in your pack while you work. I also use them as a backup fuel source on my dirt bike.

I use a fuel can similar to these. I picked them up at the local logging supply store. Most motorcycle shops sell them as well. They are a little pricey, but I am still using one that I purchased in 2002 as a motorcycle can. It has traveled over 20,000 miles in the pack of a pickup. Still works great. Finally replaced the fill hose last summer. They are super easy to secure for transport and if you put a ball valve in the hose it is really easy to stop flow when necessary. My 47 Ford tractor has a fuel tank above the electrical components. I filled with one of the new red cans once, scared to death it was going to light on fire. @oldjeep - I use these for my chainsaw and weed whacker. Much easier to pack into the brush. I keep one with fuel, one with bar oil, tied together with P-chord.

Just over $1000/yr for access to a great 3-event site that is 3 miles from my house.

The team aspect was a major part of my great collegiate experience... maybe a way to make the post-college ski scene more intriguing.