Teak Platform Refinishing

[tfriess]

Hello all. I have a newly purchased '05 196 and the teak platform needs a refinish job. Not sure if I should have this done professionally or not but I know that it can easily be done on your own. Never redone one but I'm wondering if someone could walk me through what to do on this as I have about 0 knowledge on this. Not sure if there is another thread on this or not. Also, there is a bit of a light green on the underside of the platform so not sure if this plays a role in it. Thanks much.

Tfriess

[Brady]

@tfriess, I have a lot of experience in the painting and staining world. It is a really simple process. First get some 110 grit sand paper and sand the teak down until it is down to bare wood. Next, use 220 grit and get is smooth, like a baby's bottom. Now you are ready to apply the teak stain, not teak oil. I simply rub it in with a rag, making sure you rub it in generously. Since you are applying a stain into the wood, there is no need to sand in between coats. After you rub it in, let it dry completely, and then repeat 5 to 6 times. Make sure you get the underside, the side that is always in the water. Finally, I would apply a non-slippery water-repellent sealer. After the first coat of sealer, give it a light sand and then apply a second coat. You should be good for the season and then next fall, do the whole process over again. Congrats on you boat......Awesome choice for an awesome guy!!

[BraceMaker]

Does yours have oil? Or did some foo do a polyurethane job on it?

[Brady]

@BraceMaker Great comment!!!!!! ONLY USE OIL BASED PRODUCTS!!!!

[tfriess]

Sounds like a great method @brady suggestions on specific products?

[Brady]

@tfriess I don't know the name of the stuff I use, but do not use a polyurethane. On my 197 I bought last summer, the dumb ass had it coated in polyurethane and it was slipperier than ice! Everyone who skied on my boat this last fall went down the first time they stepped out on the deck. I was literally sanding for an entire weekend to get the crap off!! Go to a professional paint store, like Kwal-Howells and they will hook you up.

[BraceMaker]

For teak platforms starbrite products has most of the stuff you will need for a reasonable price.

 

Usually you want to access what you ahve to begin with, how much dry gray surface there is, how deep.

 

The greenish just sounds like algae, but should definately be cleaned up.

 

Most people will start by brushing and seeing where it gets, that will raise little whiskers, so then it is dry sanded till the whiskers go away and it is buttery smooth.

 

At that point I break tradition, I'll use OOOO bronze or stainless wool and buff starbrite teak oil into it.

[SkiJay]

@tfriess Great advice from Brady. Another option is to clean it up, teak oil it every spring, and let it weather naturally all season long. Teak is a closed-cell wood that is naturally weatherproof and it will turn a real nice grey-white color after a few weeks in the sun.

[h2odawg79]

I 2nd the StarBrite system. But, I do not use it personally b/c use of a Good Deck cleaner, light brushing, possibly some sanding and a Can of Teak Oil from Lowes or Depo will do the trick.

 

From my understanding, the Grey/White color that appears on the Teak is actually caused by a specific Fungi and oxidation from the Sun. My Boat was from FL. and the Teak was OH, SO BAD! when I got it.

 

I actually had to Belt sand it (after 1st killing the Fungus w/cleaner) I then put a Hvy coat of Teal Oil on and let it soak in for about 60 min's then wiped off the excess. Waited til the next day and applied the Oil again the same way... (too many coats will only sit on the surface and never soak in)

 

Now I just touch it up once a Season (no sanding or fugi killing) and it looks like Brand new all Season long. (try to minimize Sun exposure when not out on the water)

 

P.S. Do Not use any Poly Urethane or shellac Clear coats! These products "Seal" the surface (for surface application) and do not perform in continuous water. They will discolor and flake/peel... (not to mention they can be Very Slippery!)

[skihacker]

When I brought home my new to me rlxi the platform was absolutely grey. I got it cleaned quite well wityh starbrite's 2 part kit, then a buddy of mine coated it with Cetol marine sealer when he did his platform. 3 seasons later it still looks awesome, haven't touched it since.

[east tx skier]

The regular starbrite looks great, but it has a sealant in it that can be a bit slick. I use Amazon golden teak oil. It looks good enough for a platform that is going to be used for its intended purpose.

 

When I first got the boat, I hit it with a sander and some 120 grit. Follow up with some "zero" steel wool. Dust it off, and add a coat of teak oil. I rub it on with the palm of my hand and get it everywhere it needs to be. Wait 10 minutes and wipe off the excess with an old sock or rag. Let it dry for about a week and reinstall the platform.

 

In the interim, i.e., once each February, I'll rub it lightly with the zero steel wool, dust it off, and apply a single coat of oil by hand. Wipe off the excess and it's good for the rest of the season.

 

This is before the excess was removed.

 

 

And the finished product.

 

 

[aswinter05]

Another recommendation for StarBrite. Buy the package and everything you need to know is on the instructions

[walleye]

Spray it with Rhino liner on the top side. Did mine 4 years ago, no maint looks good and no slip

[The_MS]

@Walleye

Nice pile of fish. Are you on a mud flat or is that ice?

[A_B]

Use brass wool and teak cleaner first, then oil, and I like Amazon as well. The last few years I used a product called AllGuard, and it was a hard sealer. It really wasn't that slippery, and I know of guys who sprinkled sand on the wet surface, but I never had anyone slip on it. Usually lasted a couple summers and no oil on the bottom of a ski :)..

 

[Inboardfix]

@easttxskier very nice transom savor on your platform.

 

Although I love my boat I'm of the opinion time spent messing with the platform is wasted. Everything else on my boat is cleaned pretty regularly and the interior is wiped down after every use but the platform isn't touched. The beauty of teak is 20 years from now if I want to make it look as nice as East Texas Skier's platform I can. Doubt that will ever happen but I know it can look that good if needed/wanted.

 

Not saying anything is wrong with having an oiled platform or as Seinfeld would say, "not that there is anything wrong with that", just wanted to present another opinion.

 

Also, those above who sand the platform sooner or later you will start saying ouch when you step onto the platform. The screws attaching the bottom section of teak to the top section are not far below the top deck surface. Not too big a deal to fix as you simply back out the exposed screws, grind them slightly and reattach (or replace with slightly shorter screws). Seen it plenty of times, it will happen.

[h2odawg79]

This pic is after an entire Season. There is no "Oil" residue from Teak oil if you don't glub it on and then just leave it. It soaks in and disappears, leaving a Platform that gets an awful lot of compliments!

 

I don't sand mine nor would I need to. It always looks great and about once a Season (never twice a Season) I just wipe some more Teak Oil from Lowes on and it looks perfect again.

 

Teak is very tough though and is probably fine w/o the effort...

[h2odawg79]

@easttxskier, Nice Platform! -bet you get that a lot!

 

Also, how do you format your Pix to get them that Freaking Big on the post!?!? -I know, EVERYTHING IS BIG in TX.!!!

[Brady]

@h2odawg79 When you insert the picture, before you enter save, at the bottom of the picture there is an option to insert picture.

[Chuck_Dickey]

@tfriess - This is the best product for refinishing your teak platform, bar none! I have been using it for years and it works great! Read the instructions carefully, don't confuse those concerning Teak furniture. Cleaning and treating the swim step is a bit different to insure a non-slip surface. NO SANDING! This makes the step too smooth and slippery regardless of your chosen sealer.

 

http://www.marinestore.com/teak.html?cart=3444681941535142

 

This is just a small bit of the information available on this site. Using "Teak Oil" feeds the problem and gets all over the bottom of your skis, which is not good at all.

 

"Teak is the most common wood found on pleasure boats, although many wouldn't use the word pleasure in the same sentence as teak. Teak wood contains natural oils which help prevent it from rotting or deteriorating in the marine environment. Unfortunately, these oils also cause teak to turn gray or black due to mold and mildew feeding upon the oil."

[walleye]

@MS

2 inches of ice...lucky hole. Wife just found out I had her babies in jepordy...We told her it was 6 inches.

[walleye]

No comments from the sunperch class or I will release this baby in your hen house you call a rock pile

[h2odawg79]

@Brady, Thx but, I did not see the dern "Insert" button below image???

[h2odawg79]

@Brady, FOUND IT!!! =D

 

Seems like the "Teak Guard" works identical to Teak Oil. Both will last all season and can be recoated w/o sanding.

 

The site does say: "If you don't mind rough wood, then great! Just apply TeakGuard to keep the mold and mildew from growing on the wood. If you prefer a smooth surface, then you might want to sand your teak"

 

My Platform had been totally abused by Miami Sun/Brakish water. -And I do Mind Rough wood! =)So, it had to be cleaned thoroughly, brushed A LOT and Sanded in the beginning. Otherwise, it would have become a very Rough, grainy and stringy looking finished deck...

 

It also says: "How is TeakGuard different from teak oil?

Nearly all teak oil products turn black or gray within a month or two. When they go bad, you'll have to start the entire process over again, cleaning the teak and coating it. After this happens 3 or 4 times a season, you'll wish you had never heard of teak".

 

IDK about that statement, I have been using the WATCO Brand from Lowes and it has NEVER turned Blk or Grey or done anything but Look freakin' Awesome! -with No Maint during the Season...

 

 

1 Qt. of Teak Oil is around $10.00 and I assure you, does Not get on the Ski's or anything else. (Unless it is used and applied improperly!) Read and follow the instructions, it's super easy!

 

 

[sunperch]

Pastor said when we got married I had to trust that you would love our kids, trust that your would keep them safe even when you did things that I did not agree with. Obviously he was wrong!! And you wonder why I have control issues........

[The_MS]

@walleye

I love the inner tube.

[walleye]

Ya, the kids were safe. I had all the precautions, inner tube, rope & life jacket. Must be control issue eh!

[GAJ0004]

Do not sand your teak platform unless the wood is damaged to the point where pieces could start to splinter and come off. My boat has 1685 hours on it and the platform has only been sanded once. If you sand it too much you could expose the staples that hold it together which could lead to cuts on your feet and damaged skis. The best way to maintain your platform is use a two part teak cleaner I use Teak A, and Teak B once a year before storage. While your boat is in storage let it dry for a month, Once a month during the winter I apply as much teak oil as the platform can absorb. For the first 2 coats I use the thinner teak oils like Meguiars and Star Brite. By themselves both of them suck.. The thinner ones soak into the wood better, but they don't stay in. They wash out as soon as your boat hits the water. For the 3rd, 4th, and 5th coats I use Amazon's golden teak oil which is almost as thick as maple syrup. In the past I only used Amazon's which would get me through a 6-6 1/2 month boating season. This past year I experimented with what I just tried, and I did not need to clean my platform, or add any oil to it. I am thinking I may be able to get through two entire seasons without having to do anything to my platform. Do not use anything like polyurethane which seals up the wood, teak wood has to breath so it can dry out. If it does not it can rot from the inside. Sanding is a last resort... Teak wood is very soft and clogs up sandpaper pretty quick.

The sun is what makes your teak turn black. Keep it covered when the boat is not in use during the season. Get a platform cover which is a money saver and labor saver..

 

[walleye]

The Rhino look after 4 years...Not the best shot but all I have, blow it up.

[Kelvin]

@OB I agree with you on the white ones that don't show scuff marks and scratches. I replaced the black one I had with a handmade teak platform - call me a traditionalist.

 

This thread reminds me I need to do some maintenance.

[Ham_Wallace]

2 part cleaner. Part A is an acid. Part B is the acid neutralizer. Apply Part A and use a stiff brush to clean the teak. It will turn a beautiful gold. After you have completely cleaned it, rinse and the apply Part B to neutralize the acid. Let dry and very lightly run a sanding pad (foam block) over the platform. (just to take the fuzz off of it).

Make your own teak dressing as follows: 2 parts mineral spirits, 1 part boiled linseed oil, a dash of oil based mahogany stain. Place in a GLASS jar. not plastic. Apply 5 coats to platform. Wear rubber gloves and use a small piece of terry cloth for the application. Not slippery and can be applied often.

[east tx skier]

@Inboardfix, thanks for the compliment on the transom saver. It's from teak world.

 

As for the effort, it took less than 15 minutes, including removing the platform and figuring out where I left the teak oil. I have been on the same bottle since 2005. By the time February rolls around, it feels good to get out in the garage and visit the boat.

 

As for the sanding, point well taken. However, sanding is a rarity (usually when I get a new boat). Ordinarily, I just smooth out what's left of the oil finish with the wool and reapply a single coat. That platform in the picture hasn't been sanded since a year after I bought the boat. So that would be 2008.

[east tx skier]

@h2odawg79 Thanks. I upload the pictures to Picasa, copy file location, click the little landscape icon in the post window here, and copy the link.

[PatM]

Clean with two part cleaner as mentioned and leave it natural. Don't want oil on my ski. My boat is very clean and waxed, but the skiing comes first. I haven't oiled my platform in 10 years.

[Brady]

@walleye Beautiful daughter you have there!

[Dusty]

I've had pretty good luck with Starbrite products, and have stopped sanding finer than 120 grit. One thing I have been doing is power washing before starting the chemical attacks on the algae etc. Teak isn't particularly hard, and aggresive sanding WILL find the screws that hold the step together. The you end up shortening the screws, filling the gaps etc- makes a two hour job a two day job at least.

[east tx skier]

For anyone with exposed screws, I recommend picking up some teak plugs. Remove the screw, drill out both sides. Soak the hole with mineral spirits to remove natural oils in the teak, dry out the hole well, coat the bottom of the plug with epoxy, and pound it into the hole. Repeat for the other side. Sand smooth and apply teak oil.

 

Had my platform refuse to come off the bracket slides. The bracket screws had loosened and the bracket wasn't lined up right any more. Removed the screws and filled all of the holes. Put the loose bracket on the boat and slid the platform back in place. Marked the hole pattern, drilled the teak, and reset the screws. Good as new.

 

[h2odawg79]

With all the remarks on here about "Getting Oil on their Ski's," I have to ask; did someone post some where that this was a problem????

 

If this was ever a prob. for someone then they did not do something right in the process or they used a very sub-par product.

 

Most typical Mistakes: They didn't allow the Teak to DRY OUT Fully (after cleaning or being on the Lake) before applying the Teak Oil,

or they did not wipe off the excess Teak Oil within an Hr. after each coat,

or they tried to apply Teak Oil to a Platform that was not cleaned properly and/or had an existing finish (surface sealer, Clear Coat) on it,

or they did not allow the last coat to dry before use... (12hrs)

 

Done properly, with a Good Teak Oil (WATCO) there will be NO Oil transferring onto Anything!

[east tx skier]

@h2odawg79, never a problem for me. I have let mine sit for a few days. Just rubbed my finger across it today and it is bone dry. After a dunk in the lake, I would have absolutely no concerns.

[Brady]

Hell, with the way I ski, oil on my ski could only improve my turns! At Utah Lake, I worry more about the lake water getting on my ski!

[gregy]

@walleye what'd do for prep before the liner. My platform is pretty bad, might be an option. The previous owner put some kind of coating that's been peeling off. I like the low maintenance idea as well.

[walleye]

@gregy

No prep just took it to Line-X told them to shoot the top and sides, cost 60 dollars. No problems or Maint in 4 years. Real grippy, no damage to skiis. Got the idea off Sanger barefoot boat. I think it looks good, others questioned when I did it but now like it. I have noticed no fading.My platform before was trashed.

[walleye]

@gregy

Is the peeling stuff a wood finish....if so sand it. I forgot mine did 2 from my previuos failures with starbrite. Bring it down to bare wood best you can. Mine was not perfect and still worked fine.

[Steven_Haines]

@walleye, I love ur passion! I look forward to seeing a new photo of ur fish slaying adventures!

[tfriess]

*UPDATE*

Yesterday, I finally started the project. I took an algae remover to it and that got all of the the green off of the sides. Looks a lot better. Then I used the StarBrite teak cleaner. Still, looking even better, so great progress so far. I think I might've ran into a problem and I'm looking for some help. In the pictures below, you will see a bit of splitting between the two sections. I'm wondering if I should fill it with some sort of putty? Also the next step is to sand. Already fairly smooth so would you say 110 or 220 grit? Then it's time to oil her up baby!

[tfriess]

.

[h2odawg79]

@tfriess,

 

No putty!

 

I would simply scrape (Lightly) the unsightly degraded materials in the joint area to give it a more uniform appearance. But, no putty or caulk will hold up in continuous water... As far as sanding goes, Mine was really Bad and I used my Belt Sander lightly with #80 grit. I would only sand if neccessary and at that, only enough to clean up the frayed or splintery areas.

 

You do not want it TOO Smooth..

 

Good Luck!

[Brady]

@h2odawg79 Welcome back! About time you made a damn comment!!!!

[h2odawg79]

@Brady, Thx Man!

I got real busy, then out of State, then back and totally swamped from being gone... I need a break and some serious time out on the water!!! =-D