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All new 2016 Vapor


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http://www.perfski.com/media/extlab/attribute_img/2015RADARLITHIUMVAPORSK.png

 

http://www.radarskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Screen-Shot-2015-11-25-at-3.25.09-PM.png

 

http://www.perfski.com/media/extlab/attribute_img/2016_Radar_Fin_NumbersComplete.jpg

 

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I just got back from the proshop with a 66"....So I will mount up my bindings and set the fin settings to stock and see how it goes? The ski is noticeably smaller so with my usual forward mounted binding placement I'm thinking it will be okay.

 

FYI, I could turn the 67" but it just seemed like it took too much effort and I just couldn't get the tip of the ski to bite deep into the water. My fin settings on the 67" were stock settings, including the 9 degree wing, which seemed high to me? None the less, I set the wing at 9 degrees.

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Off-topic, but I don't think bindings forward tends to help a tail-rider. It basically just makes it necessary to continue to do it wrong. Factory setting or even back, and then move over the ski. Even for open water, that will lead to a lot more speed and tighter carving.

 

And closer to on-topic: I think a 67" at 158lbs is huge, unless the Vapor is considerably narrower than other modern skis.

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I may get back to chasing balls, but my current set of driving friends struggle enough while driving the narrow private river I ski on now, let alone pulling me into 32' and 35' off in a course..... So I compensate by shorting the rope and just having fun with minimal injuries ;) If I could get a better driver in the future, I would like to try the course again. Then I'm sure I would have to address many things like binding and fin settings and all those bad habits you do while free skiing ;)
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@freeski41 Im on the 67" as well, same weight as you without wet and heavy equipment 34mph using Rinis settings from mars 67" 2.450 0.730 7.000 29 3/4 9 for me it is more easy to get the ski on edge with these settings prob cos of less fin depth, else you dont have any use of the rocker of the ski when it comes to turning like all of the top tier skies they are quite stiff with very little progressive flex so humping and jumping doesn't matter, the ski must be on edge try those settings there u have boot at 29 3/4 make sure you have the weight over front fot if that isn't enough or you cant get your weight over front fot try one hole further forward from 29 3/4. i think skijay or other pros can guide you deeper into ski tuning maybe increase fin DFT so you slide/smear the ski around more than carving the ski using the built in rocker and the very little progressive rocker
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Bogan and Horton has right you rly need to know how to stand right on the ski. If you have the right "stance" and weight on front foot at the doc leaning against an handle. Then you know how to stand on the water.

If you struggling to get forward and weight over front foot, and miss the feel you had on the doc cos of the ski pointing at the heaven and you try climbing uphill all the time to get forward on the ski.

When you know where your weight distribution shall be on the ski the moving of the binding forward is gonna help you out.

The more angle you have on the wing the more will the ski drag behind you and let you move up on the ski better (forward) so 9 degrees or more.

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@ChrisRossi, Thanks for the response. I picked up a 66" ski and I spent a considerable amount of time last night setting up the fin and bindings to the exacting stock specifications, to within a thousandths ;) I do believe that some of my problem is not having the proper balance/stance over the ski, like I said, I tend to ride the rear somewhat.

 

Last night I also studied many slalom technique videos on youtube to get myself better focused on proper technique (ie Terry Winter and Regina slo-mo videos). I think since I don't ski the course, and just free ski, my turns may not be as quick and tight as they would need to be for say running 35' off in the course. I know I need to work on quicker and tighter turns if I want to get back into skiing the course (Which I hope to do at some point given the opportunity)? But hey, not everyone is geeked about bouy counts, I get geeked about the speed and acceleration across the wakes running shortline and just freeskiing with friends. My PB in the course is 3 @ 35, 34mph, and I have only been in the course 20+ times. My first few times of running the course, I hit a bouy and sprained my ankle really bad, so I like freeskiing because I can stay healthy and try to maximize the already short ski seasons we have in Michigan ;)

 

I can't wait until I can get out and try the adjustments I've made, and btw, I am loving the newer bindings over the 2012 Radar bindings I had. The new lace up design is Awesome! Love the new gloves too! No more fighting with the wrist straps coming undone. Those little changes have made a boat load of difference ;)

 

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I'll write the 2016 Vapor review - I've been skiing on one now for months, mine's a 66" with Vapor boots on a Sequence plate, and it flat out ROCKS ! I did not ski as much this winter, mainly at least once a month just to keep the cobwebs away. For the past month we've been skiing at least twice a week, and I'm right back where I left off at the end of last season. Last summer Brooks Wilson gave me a clue on getting a better start, and Chet's informal clinic reminded me to focus better during practice. The Vapor is reliably consistent in both side turns, deep water starts well, stays on edge wonderfully, casts out effortlessly on the edge change, is very well made and backed up by Radar's world class customer service. Durability is very high, and the fit and finish is excellent. No one builds a better ski than the gang at Square One.
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@MS won't review in, hes married to an old broke down nano1, I will add to @richarddoane's comments. I have had only 3 sets this year before i broke my hand. (took off nov-feb). Every spring it takes me 2-3 weeks to get back to feeling like i know what i am doing. My 3rd set back I felt like I never quit skiing. The ski turns both sides very well. It moves out effortlessly off the second wake and gets across course with very little skier input. This ski should definately be on the top of @Horton review list, not late in the summer. Shame on JTH.
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So I set my Vapor up last night. I assume the 31" measurement for the front binding I used was developed with a Vapor boot, and I'm using a 2011 Strada boot. With that said, I'm only one hole forward of center, but I thought I'd ask here. Seems everyone is always talking about bindings forward usually isn't the answer for tail riding tendencies...like I have when I get in trouble.

 

Ski is a 69.5" and I'm using a rear toe plate....should I stick with the 31" (actually found two settings 30.75" and 31") to the heal of the Strada boot on the standard aluminum plate for the "recommended" setting? It's easy enough to switch after trying I know, but I'm just wondering what others think.

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Tried the new Vapor for the first time today, with the Matt Rini settings. Ran straight down the line to a season PB, and overall it felt great (coming off a 2010 silver Strada!). The biggest thing was how stable the ski felt from tip to tail - it just stayed so flat all the time - I was almost able to entirely forget about managing that aspect of my skiing.

 

Having said that, I do want to try some different fin settings, as I wouldn't say I was 100% comfortable on the ski.

 

Perhaps that was partly because my old Strada is probably a bit 'soft' by now. But the feeling was that the Vapor was totally on rails. While I'd generally feel that's a good thing for confidence, at current settings it felt just a tad too much - like I was a passenger at times. Essentially once I'd changed edge, I felt like I couldn't manage the radius and trajectory of the turn myself - like it was already set.

 

Would massively appreciate any advice with alternative settings to try - would go for the Rossi numbers but not completely clear which ones they are? A lot of slightly different numbers seem to have cropped up through the thread!

 

Ski is a 66...(I'm about 160lbs 5ft 11, skiing 58kph/36mph 22-35off)

www.swervetracker.com

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@OSSKI Check out the Rossi #s in rhis thread, don't forget front boot measurement as Rossi is back from Rini #.

I liked Rossis better than Rinis (my sons ski, he thought the same too).

If you wade through the posts you will find them, one set of #s he recommends and another set presumably his personal.

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I might be the only one to say it didn't work for me "right out of the box" but that's one of my characteristics. I simply can't switch skis and start where I left off...every ski I've ever switched to takes a few outings before I'm "used" to it. I have no doubt it's all in my head.

 

Just free skiing on the river today and I'm struggling with the offside turn. Slack rope, tail riding, falling over....I was doing it all. I can tell I'm going to like it when I get used to it as it had moments of brilliance. But it'll take a while for me to switch the muscle memory from the last six years on the same Senate-C.

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@Sethro I'm on the 69.5" also and found with the factory numbers, the offside didn't want to go if I was tentative and taking it easy. I was falling over, generally very inconsistent, etc. Once I got myself back to countering, getting forward in the pre-turn, riding the handle out wider, shoulders level, etc, the thing woke up. I'm finding it to be the most consistent ski on both sides I've ever ridden as long as I stick to a few simple keys that are really best practices for any ski.

 

For cold water, I have my bindings back one hole from center, which is where they belong per factory settings, but I'm having no issues now. It rips in the cold set like this. Wish we could get some damn warm water to try it on...

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Thanks for the encouragement @UWSkier. I'm sure it has everything to do with me being tentative on a new ski. Ironically, I moved my bindings one hole back from center after skiing it last time. It's as close to 30.75" as one can get I think, as there is some error possible depending on where one puts the end of the tape measure and which binding is being used.

 

I plan to ski again this evening, so hopefully it goes better. @Ed_Johnson I was kind of torn between 68" and 69.5" but this is the lightest I've been in ages, so I'm not sure if I'll stay at 220 pounds or creep back up a little.

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@Sethro .. Thanks for the info. I am 6'4"@ 225. Ski 32-38off. Rossi said for me to go with the 68" but Chris Sullivan said to go with the 69.5" since the ski turns so well. He used Nate Smith as an example, being on the larger ski for his weight.

 

 

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I'm happy to report it works now...or I should say it works for me now as we all know it works! Still haven't been in the course yet, just free skiing on the river. Not sure if moving the bindings back one hole from center did the trick, or if it was just more time on the ski. But I'm officially loving it now.

 

My ski buddy gave it a whirl too. He's 185lbs but skis at 30 mph for his age, and was pleasantly surprised to be able to turn the long ski.

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Just got my replacement ski, 2016 Alloy Vapor. I've got a borrowed 2015 Lithium Vapor that my boots are mounted on now and also have the new Alloy Blank. I'm quite new to the course so wondering what difference I might feel and which one I should start with. The Alloy is mine, the Lithium is borrowed. Taking both to the lake Sunday. Any thoughts on what I should ski first?

 

Are settings the same, even with the Alloy?

 

Where's my scotch? I don't even need Macallan 25, I'd settle for 21. Hell, I'd settle for Balvenie Doublewood 12!

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@Sethro what's water temp? My '15 turned into an OTF machine below 55-60 degrees with the bindings in "summer mode." I plan to get out tomorrow in hopefully high 60's surface temps on the '16 with the boots where they belong.
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