Winterizing

[Keith_Menard]

...just picked up my first direct drive, a new to me 2002 Gekko GTO-22 with a merc 350/315hp

.

 

and already I have to think about winterizing it :(

 

Do you winterize your own boat, if so how?

 

Being in new england, I am getting the heater repaired as we speak :)

 

 

[oldjeep]

Yeah, I winterize a few of them. 1 Malibu/Merc 350 and 2 Malibu/Axis Indmar Monsoons. Does the 2002 Mercury motor have all the blue plastic drain plugs and belt driven water pump?

 

If it is the same as the 2004 Mercury motor in my inlaws LXI then you just remove all the blue plugs. (couple on block, couple on raw water pump, one on the fuel cooler, one near where the lower heater hose hooks up and a couple on the exhaust manifolds) They are pretty easy to see.

 

Then disconnect the heater hoses and blow through one until water stops coming out and then blow through the other to make sure you get no water. Fill the heater core with marine antifreeze through the hoses so that it doesn't rot. And then you can either leave the block empty or fill it with antifreeze - your choice.

 

Other than that change the oil and filter, check the trans fluid and consider changing the impeller - especially if you don't know when the last time it was changed.

 

And then since it is a new to you boat - check the plugs, cap/rotor so you know where you are at on them.

 

 

[TallSkinnyGuy]

Winterizing an inboard is usually a pretty easy process and can be done by non-wrenchers like myself. There are some specific lists out there (PM me your email address and I'll email you what I have), and I have modified one of the lists specifically for my boat.

 

I am in California and just dry-block mine (just drain the water), but in New England you may want to put RV antifreeze in it. Ultimately, winterizing usually includes changing the oil and oil filter, perhaps changing your transmission fluid if the boat has seen enough hours since the last change (I do it at 75-100 hours), draining the block and hoses (usually requires removing drain plugs from risers and base of engine block along with disconnecting a few hoses along the raw water line), removing impeller (unless you are planning on replacing in the following spring), and many people "fog" the engine which should be done through the intake or in each spark plug hole depending on the type of engine you have (if fuel gets squirted into the intake on top of the engine you can put the fogging oil int there, too, but if it is a dry intake like with an MPI engine then you need to fog in each spark plug hole).

 

If you are not familiar with some of these terms, don't worry, it is really a pretty simple process and you'll get the hang of it quickly.

[oldjeep]

FWIW, I've never removed an impeller that I wasn't planning on replacing. Never seen a reason to pull them out for the winter and then put back in. And if I replace it, it gets done in the fall so that the boat can just get dropped in the water and started up in the spring.

 

One thing I left out - If you haven't got a battery disconnect switch then disconnect the cables from your battery(s). I keep mine on a charger all winter, but it lives in my garage and I've got a permanent charger in the boat.

[MISkier]

What about fuel stabilizer?

[oldjeep]

@MISkier - don't get me started ;) If it makes you feel better then it is a small cost item :)

[Jdubs]

winterizing: Now here is a topic that makes me sad. sigh.

 

[TallSkinnyGuy]

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention fuel stabilizer (I just use Marine Sta-Bil). I put it in with my last tank so it gets through the whole fuel system and then add a little more when I top it off after my last session. I keep the tank full through the winter to minimize air in the tank. Apparently this is supposed to help keep moisture in the air from mixing with your fuel.

 

@oldjeep I pull out my impeller and coat it with silicone grease and put it in a ziplock bag for the winter. I do this so the vanes don't get permanently bent and because my owner's manual says to do it. I don't know if it is important, though, and I know many people don't keep it out for the winter.

[oldjeep]

@TallSkinnyGuy In the boats I care for I pull them out every 2-3 years and replace an impeller that still looks brand new. They typically get 50-70 hours a year on them. For a crank mounted impeller in a DD it isn't a big deal. If you have a v-drive or a belt driven impeller in a DD then it is a pain and sometimes pretty tough to do without damaging the impeller.

 

 

[Ski_Dad]

That's a sharp boat ! I should be getting a DD boat next year so this is an interesting post. Don't have to winterize my outboard and thought of an inboard makes me nervous. Had a friend loose an engine 2 years ago bc it was done wrong. I imagine once I do it it will make sense.

[6balls]

My ski buddy has a '87 MC 190 he bought new. He does nothing other than heat it up to open the thermostat, and then run water/antifreeze thru it til the exhaust spits it out. We get cold here in southern canada and his boat sits in a non-heated machine shed. There are many more complex regimens out there...but this has been tested over nearly 30 years now with his boat.

I do the same for my nautique tho short of a heater or electrical failure she's in heated winter storage.

[motoskier]

Somebody (one of the engine manufactures) suggested to run marvelous mystery oil in the gas the last time you run it before winter. I do

[oldjeep]

Which engine mfg, and is this pre fuel injection? doesn't sound very sensor friendly.

[motoskier]

Not sure of the manufacture, ( I will ask him tomorrow) I do know the boat is fuel injected Malibu wake board boat, my friend owns a high performance engine machine shop and thinks it is a good idea, something about the new fuels having not as much lubrication.

[TallSkinnyGuy]

One of the ways I've heard of to "fog" the engine is to pour some Marvel Mystery Oil down the throttle body rather than using fogging spray. Seems like this method would do the job better than having it diluted in a full tank of gas. It is my understanding that the purpose of fogging is the coat the cylinders with some oil so the piston rings sitting in the same spot all winter don't create a rust ring.

[A_B]

I am with @6balls on this one. I have a 3 or 4 foot hose extension I plug into the water intake line and put it in a 5 gallon bucket. I run it until the temp gets to normal, then shut it off and fill the bucket up with 50/50 antifreeze and run it until gone. If you have a shower, have that running as well, and AF will come out that too.

The best thing is to run it the last time skiing and put the boat on the trailer and go right to the bucket of AF.

Takes all of about 5 minutes. I am in NW Ohio and it gets below 0 here many winters. Another trick we use to do was to put a rage in the exhaust to keep cold from going up into the motor. No scientific proof this works or not, but could just be an emotional thing in protecting our babies....

 

In the old days of carb motors, I would dump Fogging Oil in as the bucket was about halfway, and then really dump it in as the bucket was about empty, choking the motor off as the AF was gone. Killed 2 birds with one stone sort of thing.

[skihard]

I used to winterize my own boats when I lived in Canada. It's simple as stated above. I would run antifreeze through the intake system 5 - 10 gallons. I also removed plugs in manifolds, engine block, and pulled hoses off water pump. Someone mentioned shower and yes ensure that it was flushed and remains open.

One thing not mentioned here that I learned the hard way was if you have a intake filter make sure you unscrew it and drain it as well. I learned that one the hard way one year.

 

Basically get antifreeze through it and unfasten anything where any ice can form and expand and you will be fine.

[ScottScott]

Winterizing!?!?!? What's that? HA!!!!

[6balls]

Even better would be to install one of those quick connect valves on the intake line. It's always a bugger to get my intake hose free and still keep the skin on my hands when it busts loose. I wear gloves now.

[DW]

I would also recommend that you remove both block drains, one on each side of the block located just above the oil pan rail. Not all the water drains from only removing one.

[Fast351]

This is how my dealer recommends it:

 

1) Run engine on garden hose at idle until the oil is warm (or pull the oil right after the boat comes off the water and warm it up on the lake).

2) Change oil

3) Drain block and water pump, intake strainer, replace plugs

4) Hook 5 gallon bucket with hose to input of trans cooler (Mine is an SN196, your easiest hookup may be in a different place)

5) Fill 5 gallon bucket with RV antifreeze, run until it's almost empty

6) Shut off boat, rehook screen hose to trans cooler, tighten clamp

7) Remove battery

 

I tend to run my boat pretty low on fuel most of the time because it lives on a lift and all fuel goes in by the way of 5 gallon jug, so it never has more than a 1/4 tank in it anyway. less weight you know :) Anyway, first time out I go to the gas station and fill it up with fresh fuel. No need to keep a boat full, since the gas tank doesn't rust.

 

[Fast351]

Oh almost forgot. My neighbor does this on his boat, and I may start, since we have mice:

 

Tape the exhaust flap closed. Will keep mice from building a nest.

 

Generous application of scented dryer sheets, especially near wires where mice like to chew. I've always done this and never had a mouse problem.

 

[BrennanKMN]

x2 on the dryer sheets. They prevent mice and your boat smells awesome in the spring.

[Web]

All good stuff.

 

Start a checklist this year, and revise it next year, etc... comment on sequence, which plugs go first/last, where to fill, how much fluid, every step in order. Makes life a lot easier. Keep the lists with your boat/engine manual so it is never lost.

[fu_man]

I always put a couple of containers of Damp-Rid in there too if you are having it wrapped. If there is moisture in there and you wrap it you'll get mold.

[xrated]

Good idea on the exhaust and drier sheets.

 

Just put ours to bed for the winter and will need to vacuum it out this weekend and I will be sure to add the sheets and tape.

[Jmoski]

IMHO it's critical to drain the block first, and then suck Marine Anti-freeze through the system. if you don't, your diluting the AF and could be compromising the freeze protection. The pink RV/Marine AF is already mixed...

 

After draining, I pour a gallon into the block via the thermostat and then pour 1/2 gallon into the heater lines & the heater. I use an air compressor to first clear the heater lines and then again to push the AF all the way through the heater.

 

This approach for me is faster, simpler and doesn't waste 4 gallons of AF via the pull it from the bucket truck.

 

Finally, to backfill with AF is a commonly debated topic, the most important part is getting the water out...

[ALPJr]

Very nice boat!

[A_B]

 

[Dano]

I simply drain the block, pull the hose off the engine water pump, insure RAW water feed hose is drained, pull plugs on back of exhaust manifolds, and plug on oil cooler. I always pull the Impeller too (replace every year). Never had a problem. Of course, my block has drains located in the freeze plugs and I don't have a heater.

 

[Jody_Seal]

Aw Heck! You just simply pull the transom plug and lift the front of the trailer up with the tractor until all the water runs out then put in the pole barn!!

 

I had a customer a couple years ago bring his boat in the spring from south Alabama that winter had ventilated the engine and V-drive. That was the story he gave me about winterizing his inboard! Cha-ching!!!!$$$$$$$$$$

[Monkstr6100]

I for sure fill with marine antifreeze after draining the block with all the blue merc plugs. Also, after changing oil and filter you need to run it one more time to get NEW oil through the whole system, so do it before you drain and fill the block. ALSO, for fogging, seen as you are replacing the spin on fuel filter as well, I fill it half way up with 2 stroke EFI oil. This way when you fire it up for the last time it pumps new oil though the engine, and oil/gas mixture through the whole fuel system. Works great and starts easy every early spring.

[ESPNSkier]

I don't know the term "Winterizing" but down here in central Florida we are engaged in a new round of "Hurricanizing"!

[Edbrazil]

Just don't do what I did nearly 40 years back. Brought it to my local auto dealer, who

"winterized" it by removing the plugs and pouring oil on the pistons. On Spring startup,

the engine experienced some hydraulic lock (or whatever Jody Seal calls it), and some

valves were bonked. Engine wouldn't even run below 1500 rpm. Got a valve job done,

and refused to pay for it. Even wrote the auto dealer's parent company.

Later on, I should have checked with my back-home marina, who clued me in about

using fogging oil and other procedures. Which I did pre-Winter after that experience.

[Tdub]

I am going to give the following a try in a week or two. Let me know if it will work. Instead of taking one of the hoses off, I have a T-fitting on the hose just after the strainer. What about attaching the hose from the antifreeze "bucket"? No messing with pulling hoses. The T-fitting was an option on my 2004 SN 196 (I think). Works great in the spring when I connect a garden hose to it. But...it seems like I tried this method one year and since the hose coning from the bucket has no pressure like the garden hose, it would not enter the T-Fitting. There is some kind of spring in there. I just hate peeling the intake hose off on a cold day when winterizing. Will this work? I was even going to try to fabricate a fitting on the bottom of the antifreeze bucket for the hose. Any thoughts? Thanks.

[oldjeep]

By the sounds of it your t fitting is a perko flush valve. Only works when pressure is present on the hose line. You would need a pump to force coolant in that way. Not sure what the issue is with pulling a couple hoses, took about 30 minutes to drain and then fill the inlaws lxi with antifreeze last night. Removed both heater hoses at the block and the 2 large hoses on the thermostat housing for filling with antifreeze.

[Tdub]

Thanks @oldjeep I am just being lazy by not taking the hose off. You are right, it is a Perko fitting.

 

Cheers.

Tom

 

[usaski1]

Lightbulb.. chance it... drop boat in water overnight when it really freezes (under 28 or so) keep skiing though winter!