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Rope melting from pilon


LOTW
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What are you using to prevent the rope melting from the pilon on older boats that don't have the swivel thingy that prevents friction. We have used wax and soap but my rope looks really bad even with that.
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@Mastercrafter for freeskiing take your rope disassemble it and put all those short bits first. Ski 15 off then .5m off that and so forth. they are all lines between 15 and 28 then. Once you get so you are skiing to 32 switch back to a normal rope its like a masterline progressor rope but free.
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@LOTW ok... best thing is to buy a new rope... but if you really thing the rope is good and it’s just the red section, you can either ask a friend who is not using it, i for example remove red and orange from new and donate them to ski schools, or if it’s not that bad yet... you can turn it around and use the other side loop.

Or maybe you need a new boat as @ScottScott suggested! ??

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New Optimized 2.0 this year with under 40 sets. I wish I could go shorter and I would like a new boat but grateful that I have this one. Does anyone make a pilon "pilon bushing" that I can retro fit?
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Another thing you can do is to remove 38 or 39off section and put it back on the end loop of the 15 off.

If your pylon is toasted... find some good 50cm sections from other ropes to use as a switch and take out 50cm from your main line. Periodically just change the switch ropes. Doing this will prevent wear in all line length loops...

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@LOTW - Going with the assumption the pylon surface is an issue and wearing the rope, with your question on a pylon bushing perhaps this: maybe a piece of thin wall PVC tube with the correct ID (slightly smaller than the pylon), slit vertically and snap over the pylon.

It is interesting you are having an issue not widely brought up as a problem so perhaps some digging to see if something else is causing it such as surface roughness, burrs etc as noted previously. Are you sure this happened over time or perhaps a one time issue caused the rope burn such as not getting the rope in the 'slot' a time or two.

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Are you looping the rope through itself to keep it tight on the pylon? If so, the friction of the rope against its own loop will make it wear faster.

 

Plus, you're robbing yourself of an extra inch of line. :)

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I’m happy to send you the 15off section of my Masterline Optimized rope.

It is unused. PM me.

 

On another note - @dave2ball are you somehow affiliated with Masterline?

If so, could you please PM me, I would like to clarify something.

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Not looping it through itself, thanks for the 15 off offer but I'm in Canada eh? Adding a loop or more rope doesn't solve the problem. No burs or anything on the pilon. One thing I did notice last time out is that the webbing from the shock tube, which is usually between the rope and the pilon was not and I could feel the rope moving. The shock tube is ancient and I can't believe it's still in one piece, an H2Osmosis item from Trophy Lakes.
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@LOTW Does this look like your melted rope? Just way too many sets; I plead guilty.

krakzfyd999o.png

This is my rope purchased in 2017 (let the beatings begin - should have replaced it a year ago) almost all sets at 15 off. A great ski pal handed me a new one last week. Skiers don't let their friends ski with old ropes!

 

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No, it doesn't. Again, new this season with under 40 sets on it. Just melted on the inside of the loop and not frayed at all, perfect otherwise. It's like there should be some kind of lubricant to reduce friction and heat but I don't know what to use or maybe some sort of bushing or liner between the pilon and the rope like the newer boats have.
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Most silicon lubricants have petroleum products in them, only the more expensive specialty stuff and “personal products” don’t. I wouldn’t use that on a rope. Do you make sure to get the loop good and wet before putting it on the pylon?
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@LOTW unless you can post a pic these comments and suggestions will go on and on. Pictures will help you solve this issue.

@Andre MC was first with the Teflon sleeve in late 80’s early 90’s then Malibu. Nautique may not want to pay royalties. But Nautique is the only solid one piece pylon left out of the big three. I ski behind MC and Nautique and my rope wears no matter what. Just in different places.

 

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@Andre as far as I know... Malibu has the patent.

@vtmecheng the reason of using silicone grease or spray instead of Vaseline, it’s because it is not petroleum based. So if you are right and not 100% sure one should use the silicone spray/grease used in the diving industry. Totally not petroleum based...

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@skialex there are definitely a lot of threads in diving forums regarding some silicone lubs including petroleum products. They also recommend the use of diving specific spray for equipment.

 

That said, Many here ski a Nautique and don’t “burn” ropes or have problems. Sure, they wear out over time but that’s what a rope does. Beyond getting the loop wet, you shouldn’t put anything on the rope or pylon.

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Ski Rope Folk Lore . . All skiers should examine and replace worn sections of their ropes when needed, including the bridal. If you have had a rope break you may have learned it can cause rib bone and ligament injuries that may cause permanent problems for your skiing.

 

Fortunately AWSA made sure tournament committees were better equipped at some point in history. But before then, I only weighed 135 pounds when I broke 2 ropes in one set at a tournament in IOWA. Then broke the Brummel hook they used to use to connect handles at a tournament in ILLINOIS. All on a tight rope to the wake.

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I think that most of us agree that the rope didn't "melt" nor does the rope / pylon connection need lubrication. Wear is the culprit, but why after only 40 sets if the pylon surface is smooth? Faulty rope? Not likely.
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@Andre - MC has a patent on their "frictionless" pylon. Not sure if it's old enough to be in the public domain yet, but anyone with the extra pocket money can legally have a machine shop replicate it on their own personal pylon, regardless of boat brand.

 

@LOTW - I'll bet your rope hasn't "melted" at all. What happened is the pressure on the inside of the loop flattened the rope fibers together and the constant rubbing polished the newly-flat inner surface to a high shine. A little bit dust/grime rubbed into that shiny surface can easily resemble a sort of "charred" appearance as well.

 

As always, IMO.

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@Andre MC has had the frictionless pylon for 20 plus years. So yes it’s public domain.

@lefty depending on the level and the frequency of your skiing it would be a good idea to change the rope out at least once a year. Personally I go through 2 ropes per year skiing average 20 days a month.

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