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  • Baller
Posted

The boat is getting older and oil is harder to find also. What would be a recommended oil for this thing these days? Pro Boss GT40 efi.

Thanks!

  • Baller
Posted
Just now, LOTW said:

The boat is getting older and oil is harder to find also.

Oil is harder to find? What am I missing? Stores are full of it. My boat is a 92 5.7 that I run full synthetic 5w30 in . Mobile 1, Valvoline, or Quaker State. All excellent . Don't think you could go wrong in your GT40 at all. Are you using something special?   

  • Like 1
  • Baller
Posted

Anything flat tapet which I think a GT40 still would be I tend to use the Valvoline VR1 products easy to find and high zinc.

I've also used products from other brands like Brad Penn and belray but you can get vr1 at auto zone so it's a clear winner.

  • Like 3
  • Baller
Posted

Any 15w40 oil.  Non synthetic. I've been using the Mobil delvac diesel oil.  The shell Rotella is also popular.  

I just picked up a box of zinc additive as most oils now don't have the zinc the 351 likes.

  • Like 2
  • Baller_
Posted

Engine building friend of mine told me long ago, “try to use the lightest weight oil possible, as long as oil pressure at hot idle is adequate. “. So a quality 5w30 with zinc goes well in the GT40. Too heavy of a viscosity is not an engine’s friend. 

  • Like 2
  • Baller
Posted

I have a '98 with the ProBoss GT-40. I called PCM because there were so many opinions about oil on the forums. The engineer I talked to said they recommend Shell Rotella 15w-40. I've been using it for years and my engine runs great.

  • Like 3
  • Baller
Posted

Just make sure the oil used has the SM/SN designation. This ensures the zinc additive.

Last I looked the newest version of Rotella dropped the SM/SN, Make sure to check your Rotella being used. We cannot afford to loose these engines.

  • Like 2
  • Baller
Posted

Shop that rebuilt my GM 5.7 in my 92 Hydrodyne Comp when I had a gasket failure and hydrolock had me run VR1 straight 40wt for break in to seat the rings , then said fine to run full synthetic of my choice . It’s a roller cam engine. 

  • Baller
Posted

Small town Canada, we don't have the big retailers and stores that are available in the U.S.

Thanks for the replies and help!

  • Baller_
Posted

I lean towards filling the filter as that reduces time to achieve oil pressure after change and I use the truck version oil filter which tends to be larger.  

  • Baller
Posted

Most every filter you can buy it with or with out an antidrain back valve the Ford FL-1A from motorcraft doesn't have one but there are aftermarkets like Mobil 1 and Baldwin come with it.  So if you're obsessed you might prime by pushing that valve flap open filling the filter and then installing it which would be the work around.

Personally if you've run the engine to get the thing hot and then drain it you're not going to have any oil in the whole system but everything is wet.  I would just install and run it.

On one of my old BMW's the instructions re: the cam chain tensioner which was oil pressurized was once you finished changing it, start the engine and immediately rev the engine and hold it till the tensioner popped out.  I'll tell you that gives you the feels.

  • Like 1
  • Baller
Posted

I have been using SAE 40 since day 1. Pennzoil, STP, NAPA. I have been using FL-1A, Wix, or PCM oil filters. Change every 50 hours and at winterization. 2300hours season 30 coming up.

 

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