oldjeep

This is only the second time I have ever heard of it - the first was an explanation for the weird name of a Surly beer.

Been years since I saw Cheaper by the Dozen 2, but I would swear there is a scene where Eugene Levy does a dock start on a waterski

Perf ski has both https://www.perfski.com/ski/slaloms/slalom-skis/brands/radar-skis/ski-size/69

The Malibu will have the better wake by far at longer line lengths. I'm not a fan of the wake of that era Prostar, used to ski behind a 2011 TT promo owned by a friend of a friend and it had a wake like a curb at 15 off. (I am not a tournament skier, but this was in a course)

Grownups 2 ?

Little morning mist at Camp Bliss

Apparently they still make waterskis https://www.mesle-watersports.com/en/waterski

Never seen one on a boat, but it sounds like one of these - $16 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-460101?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAtK79BRAIEiwA4OskBhyUwXc9fbmBexdH_wGFgEMeqAzX7qhYfNRZB42bfrpuH7BzTkssQBoCA_YQAvD_BwE

@Skoot1123 - yes, in my experience the acid does something to the gel coat that makes it either more porous or rougher, causing it to get skuzzy faster. Best bet is to just keep it clean and covered in a good coat of wax all the time. If you have hard water, use something like Marine 1 wax as you dry as a wipe down. The water I boat in is pretty hard and you get white water spots all over the boat without it.

I personally stay away from spraying any form of acid on the hull. Seems to leave the gel in a state where it is more likely to pick up and hold skuzz.

What are you buffing with - hand power, orbital buffer or a high speed buffer? For tough stuff there is pretty much no way to remove it with hand power or a $25 wax buffer.

Not sure what it is, but I would just use some Collinite 940 fiberglass boat cleaner and follow it up with a couple of coats of 885 fleetwax. That combo keeps my mostly black boat shining, ought to work fine for red. If it doesn't come off then you have not applied enough elbow grease with the cleaner.

Was that picture taken in australia?

Your snake is sufficiently oiled by just putting it in the tank.

@adkh2oskier - yes. You have to add a flexible brake line between the master cylinder and the hard lines in the tongue. It just requires you to cut the existing line and re-flare.

Have you checked whereever the cable would come out next to the seat? Possible that the cable is already there and tucked up into the side panel?

FWIW, most of the skiers I know who ski buoys also wakeboard and surf - or their kids do. Now most of us also ski open water behind pretty much anything, so maybe in that way it doesn't fit in. I'd be careful about pigeon holing yourself too tightly into a sport that many enjoy - non-exclusively.

@ScottScott - here the Mastercraft/Supra/Moomba dealer is a half mile from the Malibu dealer, and they are both near the big money lake. Both are well respected dealers, and I could not tell you the last time I saw a new Mastercraft on the lake - they must be selling some, just don't know where they are going. Around here Malibu and Nautique are clearly the current choices. In any event I'll bet they have something in the hopper, if nothing else the whole surf thing is driving a lot of innovation.

Not lesser quality - lesser desirability. Mastercraft has been losing the surf battle to Malibu, Nautique and Centurion.

@klindy smart money would be unloading in next week.

Meh, nothing to do with covid. Typical venture capital bs. They never intend to hold on long term. Comparing mc to bu isn't really a fair comparison anyways. Have you been on a modern mc (vdrive)? Tacky and 2nd or 3rd best. (Dds don't count)

It's a Jabsco puller https://www.amazon.com/Jabsco-50070-0080-Impeller-Compact-Diameter/dp/B000O8D2Z8

I use antifreeze - poured into the heater circuit and the block after all the water has been drained. I use it for corrosion protection mainly, not to compensate for a bad draining process. On the standard 5.7 with crank mounted raw water pump, 1) I disconnect my manifold crossover hose in the middle (older boats have a drain on each manifold). 2) I remove the knock sensors and plugs from both sides of the block. (older boats have one knock sensor and just a plug on the other side 3) I remove the J hose 4) I remove the hose between the raw water pump and trans cooler 5) I remove both hoses for the heater off the block and then blow the water out - blow from one side and then once you get air blow from the other side if you don't know the orientation of the core. 6) I don't remove the plugs from my V-drive, but that is because it self drains in my boat (doesn't in all boats) Once that is all done I reinstall everything from steps 1 & 2. Put the lower part of the J hose on and leave the top free Reinstall the pump to trans cooler hose. Reinstall the lower heater hose onto the circulating pump Pour -50 marine antifreeze into the upper heater hose using a funnel and keep filling until I hear it flow into the circulating pump. Reinstall the upper heater hose at the top of block Use a funnel and pour whatever is left of 2 gallons of antifreeze in through the upper part of the J hose Hook the top of the J hose back up. Whole process takes maybe 45 minutes on my v-drive. Would be faster on an inboard because things are easier to get at.

Even if you already winterized it. Just open up the engine cover, remove the 2 heater hoses from the block and blow them out. Then just pour antifreeze into the top hose and you are good to go

$150 or so for the standard Johnson FB6 type pump