skialex

Yes!!!

Go for the senate pro, at your level I would get the high end one which is the pro

@Horton I probably having an OCD, but my skis always look good under the plates. I never use pads (for preventing fogginess), my countersunks are perfect and I use sand paper to break the edges of the plate’s perimeter and inside the slots. I also like d3’s plastic film that protects the ski and then after couple of years you remove it and the ski still looks new. even my Goodes’ surfaces look good after years of use… I only sell the skis I didn’t like and the ones I keep, I want them to look good on the shelf! Im super OCD on this…😂 when someone is trying a ski that I’m selling, I too put duct tape to cover the plate screws and on the ski where the edges of the plate touching. I don’t pay much attention at soft goods, the important things for my skiing are skis, bindings and ropes…

This is what I sometimes do with old handles… new rope though, doesn’t look that good when using used rope…

Had the same issue but it signed me in anyway, so not a biggie…

@Hortonyes I total agree with you, but once I had the experience to ski on very stiff prepreged carbon plates and next set, same ski, but with reflex soft so-called carbon plates and the difference was very noticeable. from then after I pay attention to at least use soft plates or anyway plates made for skiing…!

@Horton Ho has been doing this this far more before Radar, with the animal and similar boots. Radar started it with the aluminum sequence plate. I like the concept. reflex had something with similar result with the bonds or bond plate that had studs but you didn’t have to tighten down the nuts as they where lock nuts… so the plates were kind of floating while in use….

Where I ski, there are only ski schools, no private lakes or private boats. No annual fee or club membership, you pay by the set. So the common thing is that the schools provide the ropes and the handles. New skiers don’t have any of those and more advanced have at least their own handle. I encourage people to have their own rope not just handle. Ski schools only change their ropes when they are ready to brake… If you do the math, on weekends, they pull like 40 sets behind a boat per day… (not all sets are pulled by the school’s rope) each rope can have more than 150 sets a week and they use them for weeks if not months. My yearly rope use is their weekly use. So I educate other skiers about the importance of having their own rope, for safety and for not damaging their joints on a dead stiff rope. I wouldn’t ski those ropes. I change mine after about 200 sets and donate it after that… 😂

Not yet…

@swbca if you already have purchased a Mikrojust for the front binding, then you already have a countersunking drill bit that was included. Use that to countersink the screw holes, or a size up from that as the heads of tfactor mounting screws are a little wider than 8-32 screws. But I believe you will be ok with that bit. I have put bindings directly on a sequence plate, just avoid the slots made for mounting radar boots on it. have installed reflex hardware in front and rubber binding at the back… personally I prefer separate plates, I don’t want a fixed front to rear boot spacing. I want them to be able to move separately

Not my preference or suggestions, but you can cut the slots vertically on your plate and use a flat piece of aluminum over it or g10 or oversized washers…

You can put your rear boot on another plate, like a reflex g10 rear and easily add a second mikrojust

When I see this, I always warn the guy to not use it and buy new. we spend way too much money on skiing to save on ropes risking getting injured.

@Drago lipstick as a measuring tool…? please no…😊

I use the same plate for reflex and radar and with the radar boot on I’ve settled 1/8 back on the mikrojust in relation to reflex shell.

I buy new screws by the 100s, but why not cleaning the ones that have no wear and only have salts that can be removed with a good discaler? Picks are before and after the use of a good discale solution that I buy at a cleaning product store, by the lt.

Front binding… rear right screw. Rear binding (rtp)… rear left screw. I’m LFF. And any other screw, but usually these are the first to get loose, on any ski. I carry a loaded tool bag, but don’t carry it around, mostly sits in the car. I always have a ph2 around to check screws before skiing.

Loctite could back out your inserts in some brands… I’m with what @Horton said!

Please don’t use red loctite, red loctite needs to get hot to loosen. I wouldn’t like to use my heat gun on the ski to loosen the screws. boot hinges that I never want to get loose, I use red and can use some heat without damaging the shell if needed to unscrew. I use it on my motorcycle disc brakes or anywhere that a secured mount is needed and I can apply heat to loosen the screws afterwards.

That was funny!!

@thager you could be right, or he might had a stash of some very old skis with not thousands of sets in them. Very impressive though.

@Stevie Boy I have flex tested some skis that had more than 500-600 sets. Haven’t seen any softening. Not at all. I have only seen in some an increase in the time for the flex numbers to settle, compared to fresh skis. I don’t believe that a ski can become softer thus more user friendly for us mortals. I also believe that some skis don’t wear out at the same rate and riding a ski that you like a lot for some years after many sets, doesn’t mean that it’s done, If it feels right… it feels right. I have thrown away a ski that I loved for many years because it felt sluggish and to much work and when tried a fresh ski it felt much easier to ride.

@chrislandy what is that cord harness? Does the ski floats or not? 😊

They are the same, reflex now sells the classic black shell without the strap as trick shell and with the strap as slalom. All my fellow skiers still use the classic black shell without the strap for slalom though.

It happens and it’s not a big deal. Especially if you won’t destroy the removed inserts. For next time… put the plate with the insert on a Vice (as is in your picture). Tighten the Vice as much as needed for the insert not to turn while unscrewing it. Chances are that it unscrews without destroying it. Run a 8/32 tap through it and put it back in the ski. If the ski brand is what I’m assuming it is, most of the times you can put it back without using any adhesive (better use some). also Helicoil is a thread repair insert, not an insert by itself. Unless they now sell inserts too. I would write to the ski company to sell me some inserts so my ski would look as it was before. if your insert pocket is not widened. Use the same inserts. Your ski brand, usually does not need oversized ones. D3 sell inserts but they will not look the same as yours. They also sell oversized ones. if you need to buy from a local hardware store, look for 8/32” brass wood inserts. No special tools needed to reinstall, just a screw and a nut. Just be careful with any excess adhesive that can go in the threads and dries there. If you use any adhesive, mask everything around the insert hole with masking tape, if you want your ski to still look good. ps. If you have an older model of the same brand you can use it as a donor. Until you receive some from the ski company. You can remove one with the screw and the nut in it. Same way as installing one. good luck Alex