skialex

I put mine in the oven at 100celcius for about 6.30 min and wear 2 soaks on. It worked just fine…

@BraceMakeri wouldn’t like the 1/4" or the .010” depth without knowing, but my worst would be the 1/4". 1/4" can possibly hurt you especially if you are not aware of the change. I’m a big fun of the mikrojust… you can tell…

It’s another thing changing the boots themselves and another moving them back or forth, or moving the fin… changing your boots, (to a different style or setup) could be huge and a bigger change than trying a new ski at stock with your trusted boots on. figuring out a new ski could take some time also. Fin/boots moment… you can experiment, ski some go back to what felt better…

Best time of the year, temps up to mid 70s, sunny days no wind. But it doesn’t last long. Usually one or two weeks more, till the end of the month. Temps drop fast after that and already difficult to have an evening set as daylight drops earlier.

Kris Lapoint makes this blue rubber kind of overlay. Cole is running it and I’ve seen it on other skier’s Lp skis. the rest is Wiley’s rear boot parts

@vtmecheng strap is not supposed to go around the cuff if the boot is bolted to the plate. Only when used with a released mechanism.

And this is how it started… 😊

@aupatking your lake must be amazing, can you post some good pictures of it? 😊

At 185 Lbs I ski the 68" Xtr, ski turns… I used to ride the 66" XT which was the size that it is called the 67" now and I had to keep my weight below 180 to ski without loosing to much energy at each pass. I moved to the 66.75" XT now called the 68" and it was the right size. So naturally I bought the 68" XTR CC. Ski is very good but in my opinion a tiny little slower cross corse than the XT. The XTR is… was one of my favorite skis, you can’t go wrong with that ski, only size wise… I ski on a 67 Neo2 right now, which I like a lot and ski really good on it, have also kept the XT and I like that too. Can ski good on both.

Boat was away from you at 5…

Just read @OldboyII post, I’m sorry, I guess ski chest is probably a right term…

@Drago I guess either he meant his chest box or he is a pirate and meant his treasure chest. anyway in all seriousness, English is not the birth language of a lot of ballers so give as some slack… 😊

Missing “Awesome”

@lpskier when using a t handle Allen wrench, adding like 0.005 is easier and you can be about right. Removing some… is a lot trickier. Connelly’s mechanism looks that it can move the fin in and out with some precision. It’s cool and if it works, others will follow and make some of their own, same or better… or who knows… innovation is cool 😎

I was at a friend’s ski school for 2 weeks helping and I had 14 sets, one set a day. I felt that I could do this for a whole season. One set a day at the peak of the season, felt so good and had not need for days off.

Ski in salt water… and you will stop worrying about cavitations like your… 😊. I have a similar or maybe worse cavitation on one fin, but I blame the salt in the water…

Pencil works great on most ski. Every time I move my bindings I put a pencil mark on the ski. I have a mikrojust…

Peak of season about 8 and if I’m at a ski school for a week, I can exceed that, but with a big brake afterwards. off season about 2 per week. More than that and I’m dead…

I was setting up a new ski for a friend and there were carbon fibers sticking out from one side of the fin. What would you do? I dealt with it, not a big deal, removed the fin and cut off any loose fibers. Asking for a replacement would have taken forever and dealer is also a friend to both of us. To me sometimes an easy fix is better than asking the dealer or manufacturer to dealt with it.

@BraceMaker yes there is such service, I have send a file with angle gauges to a water jet cut company. they came out great, but I now printing them with my 3d Prusa printer. for the above, I have plenty of new and used plates, front and rear and cutting a piece with an angle grinder is an easy job for me, without needing to outsource it. but yes, yours is a good idea! thanks!

In my experience with both boots… there is no straight forward answer. If you tighten the plate and clip each boot on and measure per manufacturer recommendation, you will get deferent numbers. I measure with a reflex boot, set it at the number I want and then put the radar boot on and move the plate 1/8 back. From my experience this is as close to the position you want to put the front binding as possible ie factory recommended or a the position you want. Then you might need to play a little. But this awkward method works for me when I try a ski and want a starting point for my boots.

Good job, but not a lightweight boot anymore. Another thing I have done before… I cut off the rear of an aluminum plate, S bent it so it can sit flat over the rear of the feather frame and the rest of it to sit flat on the ski over the rear inserts. Almost what you have done but the cut off aluminum goes over the rear plastic of the feather frame. Countersunks through both plates and reverse nuts on top. Nothing sticking out.

@ALPJr I would use a thread and a needle at the 4 corners and maybe in the middle. Just enough to keep the pads in place. Maybe from the inside of the vest.

Have found a picture…

I have successfully turned a rear feather frame to a front aluminum. Apart from the 4 screws through the 4 corners of the boot, I run a 5th screw through the middle of the like Radar does. Prong nuts on top, nothing sticking out, red loctite to be safe and keep everything in place. That was for a beginner slalom skier looking to put a ski together in the cheap.