Ed_Johnson

I had one and when ZO came out was just too much ski to overcome the force ZO put on you compared to Perfect Pass. Especially for Big Guys. The Mid-Ride became the ski of choice back then.

The Whistle sound is quite evident at the stock settings, but as you shallow the fin and go forward more to optimize performance the sound goes away.

Whats with the Pineapple..Since the Parsons are Bakers, shouldn't it be a Cookie or a Doughnut ???

Goode's can last if they are kept away from HEAT. Set them in the Sun a lot, a hot shed, or hot car trunk, and it's a short life expectancy !!!

Agree with the Goode Powervest. I had to use one for a while 10 years a go. You will never need the dropped ski again. Just remember to Heat Mold the plate to conform to YOUR back. Keeps it from Flexing.

When I lived in Hawaii, we could not have boat houses in the water, and had to have floating docks. My house was right across from the middle of the Slalom Course, so I used the mooring whips to keep the boat from banging into the dock from boat wakes. Worked extremely well.

@BraceMaker I know it totally worked for me. First used it on my NRG. That ski turned great on the offside but could not get it to turn well on the onside. I was always having to force the turn. It was Cord and Caldwell that told me to try it and that I needed a minimum of .030 to make it work. They even had a screw in the Fin-block of their Denali at the time, they could adjust the depth on one side. It really worked well. I tried it with the stock fin, CG Fin, and the Whisper Fin. All worked better with it. That is currently my back-up ski to the Denali C75 I currently ride. The new C75 doesn't seem to need it, as I explained before. Only skis where you have tuned the off-side really well and are having trouble getting the on-side to turn.

Now that is a Happy looking skier !!!!.......Looks like me in the Liquor store !!!

Really good basic understanding...The only thing that was not discussed was differential fin depth, and the effects it can have on onside vs. offside. Some skis more than others. As an example, my C75 Denali, you just tune it for the onside turn, no differential needed, because the offside is fantastic. You could probably put the fin on backwards and it would turn the offside well.... However, with the D3 NRG, it took .030 depth differential, to get the onside to turn equal to the offside. It was the only way to get them equal. An the person who told me to do that was Adam Cord....Thank you !!!

@Luzz ... Great interview, Thank You...I must point out that there are not very many who have dedicated their entire lives to skiing as much as Jen and Kris have. Both have seen it all, been to the top of the mountain, and are very humble and dedicated to improving the sport. Thank you Luzz for getting that story out there !!!!

@A_B ... Have tried several wings with the WF and found a "small" Std. wing works best. Amount of degrees depends on water temp. Above 70*= 5* of wing, 60*to 70* = 6* and below 60* = 7* of wing. Plus the farther forward you have your bindings, and the farther forward you have the fin and shallower, the more it will smear. When the ski starts to feel unstable while lining up with the course, you probably have it right. PS: Remember, you can only move the WF in 2 dimensions, DFT fore and aft, and depth up and down. The index marks must remain parallel to the bottom of the ski for the water to properly go through the flukes !!!

@keithh2oskier...Home with a leg injury right now, but the next time I ski I will pull a buoy and get a picture of the process. Hopefully Fri...I have 2 more left to finish.

Currently in the process of my yearly painting of my Goode Bubble Buoys that are now 10 years old. Paint them every spring after the Sea Gulls, that crap on them all winter, head back to the beach. We are in Orlando. I do them one at a time. So first put a spare one on, take the old one, hose it off and soak it in a tall plastic bucket, with water and a gallon of bleach for a few hours. Then I put it on a poll, and brush aircraft grade stripper on it to remove the old paint. Next clean it completely, let it dry in the sun for a couple of hours, and spray the top third with Rustoleum 500 degree Engine Paint, Chevy Orange. No need to paint the bottom that is under water. Very flexible, since you have to squeeze and burp the Bubble Buoys every now and then. They look better than NEW, and lasts for a year in the Fla. sun. The winter birds are the biggest problem here.

@RAWSki ...Thats a good price and should sell fast !!! Are you located in Jasper and ski there ???? I will be in Jasper at Revelation Aerospace to build my next Airshow Jet when they get all the carbon fiber parts built. Would love to know if there is a place to ski nearby.

Any comments on using the Plus on the S vs. the R...I really like the Plus on the S since it picks you up smoother off the ball than the old plus did, and especially if your a big guy, will help SHOOT you across. You can even hear the RPM in the boat pick up when you load it. If you haven't tried it you should. I suggest you start with A+ first, then move to B or C, because it is a significant increase. In Regular mode on my 200 6L, I always liked C2, but in Plus Mode B2+ does a better job of acceleration cross course....C3+ is a absolute rocket ride.

@ReallyGottaSki .... The Handle really makes it cool...Nice Job !!!!

I will take a different approach on this. Most skiers would only post a video when they have the ski dialed in and are at their best, I THANK YOU for having the Balls to post, knowing your not dialed in and face criticism, and share the process of dialing in the ski. I have no criticism, only respect !!!

Pigozzi pats 6 ball @32 with the inside hand all the time !!!

Switched years a go from the Black Shell to the Supershell with Double toe loop. Felt it was stiffer and made me feel more solid and connected to the ski. Just switched to the 5.0 and it's better than ever.

@buoyboy1 .... No, on a Denali C75. The NRG did work best with a CG Fin and/or the Whisper Fin, Long and Short Line. The WF is a different animal ..Short/Shallow for it. Anybody needs a CG Fin, RFF, I have 2 and only need one..$125.00

The Denali has very little tip rocker and it stays down better than any ski I have ever riden.

For a long time I skied on Goode skis with the forward Mini-Wing and the Larger Ventral in the normal wing spot. It worked well in the fact that it kept the nose down coming off the Apex to the Hook-up, especially at short line...Also, the Ventrals worked well because they seemed to have less drag than normal wings. Later I switched to the Sans Rival which had a Carbon Fiber Fin, and with the flex of the fin, the nose automatically stayed down, so I no longer used the previous setup. The same is true of my current Denali C75. PS: Way back then I also tried the 3 wing setup, but did not find any advantage to it.

I remember, some years a go, Chet Raley and @Chad_Scott were using a Mini-Ventral Wing in that same position with great results. Dave Goode was selling these. Don't really know what ever happened to that trend. Wing info begins at 2:58

I have had Malibu, MC, and now a 200 6L. Every one of them needed tweaking to make them perfect. My current 200 is the best I have ever driven. However, it has 50 lbs in the nose, 2-50lb barbells under the pass seat when empty, and the rudder tab adjusted all the way over. It is the lightest on the wheel by far, compared to other 200's I've driven.

I have had the upper cuff bolted on my Supershell for the last 2 years an it produced great results as far as keeping me from rocking back on my ski and allowing me to obtain a more forward stack. At the beginning of the year I switched to the C75 and also bought the Supershell 5.0. The boot comes with a orange plastic Block that keeps the cuff from going to far back. I still wanted it to be in a more forward position, so I took the orange block and rotated it from it's horizontal position to a vertical position. This has worked extremely well and put the cuff in a more forward position while still giving it the freedom to go even farther forward, while restricting the rear movement. Really the best of both worlds.