skiinxs

That would likely cover gas on the tow vehicle to get to most tournaments, but not depreciation on the tow vehicle for the miles.....

I have had success with StarBrite hull cleaner helping a friend clean a boat that was left in the water for long periods of time. I sure thought by your picture that yours was calcium, but if it was the CLR would have removed it.

@KRoundy It was a ceramic coating from Mothers.

I was afraid someone was going to ask... and I don't know the answer. I'll check and post as I hear back.

Another good tip, a friend has been getting to my lake early to ski a few times a summer and putting one of the newer ceramic coatings on my boats. With this stuff on the fiberglass, I have been able to ditch the vinegar and wipe down without it after hanging the boat each day. I never get any water spots any more and the stuff is really slippery, easier to wipe down. I used to be a big advocate of using 303 on the gel coat, but I believe this stuff is better.

+1 on using Lime Away or CLR. If it was light, vinegar would do the trick and after removing it, in the future wipe downs with 50/50 vinegar / water after every use will keep the lime off. No reason to subject your gel coat to hard buffing, especially when that is pretty ineffective, when a simple spray -on, wipe off will do the trick. Lime away or CLR will not hurt the gel coat.

My bet is the coupler at the transmission end of the driveshaft. (as has been mentioned above a couple times). I'm not sure if Malibu uses double taper driveshafts, spline on the transmission end, or slide in coupler with key and square head bolts to hold. If it is a double taper, I would take the four bolts out to separate the driveshaft coupler from the transmission, slide it back and put a socket on the nut inside (just like on the prop end). See if it moves any when you re-torque it. You might be able to test this theory by running the boat first. Try taking off hard, then slowing down really gradually so the prop is always pushing, no water pulling it backwards from stopping. Hit it hard again and if there is no pop, you are definitely dealing with something loose in the drive train, most likely the coupler at the transmission end since you have already addressed the prop end.

@mmadore21 Now that you say that I seem to remember that Diacom would not connect on my 2008, I ended up wiring another diagnostic port connector to the wiring under the dash, now it all makes sense what the problem was!

Is there another system in development other than the one Sure-Path is working on?

I've always wondered why D3 doesn't use a fixture to set their fins at their recommended setting prior to shipment. I have bought a LOT of D's over the years, the last being an Ion. None have ever been at their recommended setting when received. Not a big deal for me, I always check and reset before I start tweaking and I have loved all of them, but since they send out a lot of skis on their demo program, and I would bet a lot of skiers never measure or touch their fins, I would think that they may not have as good a demo experience and send the skis back. A fixture seems like it would be a simple solution.

@DW Not sure, cant really remember which one didn't have it, I think it was '16 or '17.

Something else to watch for is to make sure the screen in the inline thermostat housing on top of the engine close to the heat exchanger is clean. That screen will eventually clog if not cleaned occasionally. My suggestion is to remove it and throw it away. They quit putting the screen there in the later years.

Good advice above on the process, but very important. LEAVE IT UNDERWATER UNTIL YOU HAVE EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO START IMMEDIATELY! I can't stress that enough. The corrosion when underwater is very slow, but once the air gets to it, it speeds up over ten fold.

+1 on Touchless covers, you should really look at them if there isn't an issue with it working on your dock. Mine is eight years old and still working perfectly, zero issues. It also doesn't trap moisture in the boat as the entire vertical perimeter at the top has a mesh that the flap covers. They are all custom made to your measurements and I suggest having them come down to within 1/2 inch of touching the dock. I have seen some that have a large gap from the bottom to the dock and heard owners who complain that it allows birds to land on the dock then fly into the boat and also cats, raccoons, etc can get in. Mine almost touches the dock and I have never had this problem.

Thanks to the above post, found the old site (since the new one has been down all day). Wow, the old site was so nice!

Here is a good one for the FAQ's. If you get a string of exactly 20cm variances, it means that there was no GPS fix signal for those balls. If you look at the breadcrumb screen you will see that there was no signal. That may confuse some people, I think it would be better if it listed something like "NS" at each ball to indicate there was no signal. Another cool feature is the times at all balls are saved along with the path data. Could be very useful if the scorer didn't get a time and the previous time has already scrolled off the ZO system. It also helps to give a redundant check on times and proves that Zero Off isn't simply making them up:) The two systems usually match, are sometimes off by .01 and rarely off by .02

Malibu if you want to ski. It will handle Table Rock Lake fine. Even in really rough water you can always drop down to trick speed and get where you need to go.

Keep the end dry, water intrusion will kill the coax.

I wish all of the vest manufactures hadn't quit putting straps on them. You are trusting a lot that the zipper won't come down in a bad crash when you really need it. (and they do come down, I have experienced and heard from others that they came down on several brands.)

+1 on the improvement in elbow pain with the new ropes. I also have had bad elbow pain for years, but none the last two years after switching to 1.0 and now 2.0.

One other thing to check, did it look like there was any moisture inside the cap? Hit the inside of the cap with a bunch of wd40, that will displace moisture if that is the culprit.

Are you sure it is gas in the fuel rail not water? Could have gotten a slug of water due to gas / alcohol separation in a storage tank. Drain the Fuel Control Cell and see if any water comes out. While you had the plugs out did you do a compression check? How many hours? Could have a worn timing chain / sprocket and possibly jumped time and / or broke a timing chain. If the cam isn't moving a compression check should show zero on any cylinder with the valve open, although I don't think the distributor would be moving if the chain was broken, and there should be no spark. You could check for jumped time with a timing light by making sure timing is not way off. If it jumped time you would need a new timing chain and sprockets. If both of those check out I would change the crank position sensor as mentioned above. When you checked spark did you just look at spark jumping on the removed plugs or did you use a spark tester? It takes very little voltage to jump a spark plug gap which is not under compression, you should use a spark tester and ensure it jumps a much larger gap.

Couldn't make the change work for me, switched back.

@in Yes, the buckets are the 25 lb buckets. I have added once per year, this is the 4th year. By the next spring the color has faded quite a bit but it seems to last through the weed growing season each year. We have been fortunate to not have any major water over the spillway after I add in the spring.

Great webcast, great skiing, great announcing by Cole!