BraceMaker

Take Luzz up. You won't be dissapointed.

@swbca Actually what you've done replicates where I got the idea originally my neighbor has a 4x4 with a keel roller bolted to it. Just one of these and he adjusted it up so it basically touches the keel and hits the skeg at the same time. I would have stolen it but on my lift the front of the bunk isn't that close to my front skeg so I needed something that would need to come back over a foot to hit the front skeg before my prop hits.

I think the idea is you buy it and he restores the boat for 10K?

Wade Cox calls non-matching gear cross dressing. My front hardshell is a boot on another brand's release plate with another company's rear on a ski from another company using liners from a different brand all together my vest comes from a different brand and the gloves I use match my rear boot but not my ski or my vest. Unless someone is paying you to use their stuff use what fits and feels good.

Correct but the PVC can bend pretty easily so its not a hard hit. We don't power into it, but as you come onto the lift eventually you bump it and then crank up. Its a lot better to bump a fin than hit the prop into the lift.

Skip the laminated wood - we've always just done this with PVC pipe across the lift cradle using a U bolt. ours is 3" has enough give that if you come in a smidge hot it isn't a hard stop. But is stiff enough to prevent too much forward motion.

Looking straight isn't really good enough very small run out issues will thrum badly. It also sort of sucks because there isn't an easy way to mount a dial indicator (nothing magnetic under the boat) but if you have a decently sized C-Clamp you can clamp a dial indicator to the strut. I usually pull the prop and measure behind the strut just in front of the prop, again in front of the strut and then a final time inside the boat boat where you can typically reach if you have a mag base stuck to the transmission. Or if you have a set of rollers obviously taking the shaft out is best. I bet your shaft has a bend in it and that bend is sometimes inside the boat.

Other I'd say is rear plate straight but heel free.

@buechsr yup its the double edged sword, getting to use the greens and the gates and having mini course is excellent because they can work on all those other moves and timing. But you're locked into width. There are other ways to learn the course by moving the boat, and having drills take one shadow 2 3 4 5 take 6 etc.

With out adding balls the technique is to drive down just outside of the boat guides, the skier goes around the turn ball and the opposite boat guide marker for a total course width of 12.65m or 6.325m I would say that it does feel quite narrow but it is convenient that it overlaps the 6.4m recommendation as you could just put in an official disability course dimension which is cool. Double edged sword if you've skied around the mini course it doesn't have the dynamics quite but then if you're splitting the difference you get pretty close to just going for the whole course anyway.

It sort of looks like the fracture was during the front flip when his ski leaves the water for the second time.

I have a few from different brands they're all fine. But after watching a Harry's Garage video (great if you're into classic cars and motorcycles) I've started using Ctek Their vehicle side connectors : https://smartercharger.com/collections/accessories/products/ctek-comfort-connect-indicator-eyelet : have LED charge indicators. I've started adding these to my stuff and there is nothing like walking past your lawn tractor and going hmm that needs a top up to keep your stuff working just last night I charged my motorcycle and I've been adding these to the batteries on everything I own.

I think you'll find that customs should be paid or rather is due. Some companies play games like "used sporting equipment" but either they should have collected it and had you pay them or UPS is probably owed.

http://i-carve.com/snowboard_hard_and_soft_boots/mountain_slope_point_951_standard

Thats always a good question Connelly made a ton of these skis

Quite the shock tube too

He lose his dewalt?

Make sure to wet your RTP and foot and see how far you can work it up. After mine broke in my toe was banging. I spent time modifying but it stretched a bit and my foot moved up.

Long and shallow are relative to short and deep. The idea would be to its extremes: Because the rear of the fin is roughly straight vertical if you bring the rear of the fin up and down and leave the front of the fin the same you change the depth and not the length. Where as if you move the front of the fin up it disappears into the bottom of the ski and the length of the fin drops. Overall the long and shallow and short and deep fins are roughly similar exposed amounts of fin but where the fin is and how it acts upon the ski are different. between the two like long and deep or short and shallow would be fins that are too much or too little fin respectively to do the job.

Its in your link its a only the 63" ski that becomes a 65" and you go from a 63" with versa-tail to a 65" VT tailed ski unclear why its listed that way I suspect engineering wise they concluded that if you're heavy enough to need a 67" ski you are too heavy to put that pressure into the system as it was designed.

Yes its just one star washer if needed usually a middle hole with a flat headed screw.

The plate just needs to not slide. Tons of ways to do it properly tightened it won't but screws can loosen slightly and you don't want after 5 crap sets to realize your boot slid. Tons of work around even putting a bit of that stair grip tape on the ski under the binding in the middle of the plate so the plate is bowed slightly and stuck works. Star washer works stainless cup washers too. I just had to have no slip when I used FM because a plate moving changed the release setting which was not good.

Microjust is sweet before I had it though I just ran a single star washer on one of the screws under the finish washer. Bit into the plate hard enough to lock it down.

Is the boot as far forwards as the measurement says it should be?