skihacker

Don't blow me in to TW but I've always made mine out of plastic 5 gallon buckets, sand all the edges and corners, and used zip ties, never had issue.

I once crashed and ended up with the handle behind me, through my armpit, on the way through it hit the inside of my elbow so hard I thought it was shattered. Fortunately a week of rest and ice and it was ok but scared the living #$%& out of me. It was at 28 off and I pretty much run that in my sleep, today it's my opener. I've used handle guards since before then but don't see very many others with them, individual choice I guess.

Mccormicks is a great sight.

I dropped 22 this year for the first time mid season. I was running a lot of 35's but was usually sucking wind pretty good once I got there, I pretty much always run 2 passes at each line so my 35's were my 7th and 8th pass. Once I started going out at 28 I started making almost all my 35's,

One of our courses sits in a little less water that is pretty dirty and weedy. We also get a 2-3 foot drop in water level through a season. The turns used to be individual anchors, that's something I would advise against. Even towards the end of the season with the main pretty much laying on the bottom a strong cross wind would move the main off center, it wouldn't come back to center after the wind died down due to weeds and mud. We've since put the turns on pvc which seems to keep it from moving nearly as much and even if it moves slightly its stays ski able.

My boss says we have to keep our open bow (04 rlxi) even though there are no kids in the house. It seems her favorite seat during sunset cruises is the bow, she's my all time best driver so she wins, life could be worse.

My 2 nephews are going on the boom this coming summer for sure.

I know, I love the wake, in florida i've skied a few older ones with pp and love them, just zo boats, maybe with more time behind one I would adjust but no access.

A quick additional comment regarding different boats, to this day for whatever reason I can't ski a 196 no matter what the setting, way too rubber bandy, but my buddy's 200 at c2+ feels to me really close to my tug with pp.

Zero off for sure pushed me out of tournaments, at the time I had no way to get any practice with a zo boat. My last try at a tournament I missed my opener 3 times. Its been many years and it has gotten better but I haven't been back.

C2+, always.

Western New York, still have both courses in but the weather the last week pretty bad, really windy and much cooler, hopefully a couple more runs yet, water level pretty low also.

Really sucky thing for our crew is we're pulling boats due to water level, water temp still around 60 and weather has been pretty good all thing considered. Down to the 2 boats with the best water depth at the hoist.

An engine with a carb thats used less frequently it isnt a bad idea, a better idea is to run it dry, like a mower in the fall or a snow blower in the spring. A fuel injected engine its not nearly as big a deal imo.

I would second the 1.183 handle for sure,

definitely a boomerang, likely wrong year in ad

C2+

I know my wife would swear that's me back there!!!

One other thing is to make sure the hardware won't sit too low and rest on the top of your ski, that makes ugly in a hurry.

I think it shows that i'm a little chubby and a hack, yes i ripped the aluminum nuts through the plate, mostly the rear 2 nuts of the rear boot but started doing the same thing at the back of the front boot also. The nuts were indeed from an old fogman setup, they will spin so you have to hold with pliers when tightening, and can't make any changes with the plate on the ski. I got into the habit of removing the plate once every few weeks to check this as you can't really see it with the plate on the ski.

Those with a washer is what I used instead of the aluminum

I found early on with mine that I was folding that square aluminum nut in half and pulling them through the plate. I switched to a low profile stainless nut with a large stainless washer and haven't had any further problems. The square nuts can be had with a call to goode I believe.

If this code was found in a car it would mean bank 1 sensor 2. Bank 1is the side of the motor where the # 1 cylinder is, and sensor 2 means behind the cat.

I've got 2 oneil gooru's, easily 7 ish years old, my only grumble is they stretch out a little after a couple seasons, i try not to let them hang dry, laying flat on a lawn chair seems to help,

if the pcm really thinks air temp is 40 below its going to run crazy rich, which might have flooded it and fouled the plugs.