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Mapple 6.0. 66.75". Struggling.What settings do people have?


londonskier
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I've skied on a Strada the last few years and on a good day, get into 32 off. I bought a Mapple, Andy set up from looking at video. Not good, I got a big offide turn, not a sharp one with angle - how I like it. Am now on stock settings, but I'm not feeling it. It wont finish the turn on my offside, LFF and has a tendancy to Stop on my offside if I try to crank it. I would really appreciate some input. This week I've gone back to the Strada, it feels like an old friend. I know Mapple skis will help me, but before that, are many guys skiing on it and whats the opinion? Ant got numbers that work please? Stock is F Boot 29.5, Length 6.840; D 2.505; DFT 0.775 [non needle]. wing 8 [i'm on 7]. I'd like the Mapple to work, but no love so far! Cold water in London.
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Cold water here in Colorado too. I have ben trading emails with Andy this week regarding offside tip stalls with my 66.75. At 190+, I am afraid I need the larger ski. He emailed me last night that to "free up the ski" (in addition to tip stall, I am hving a problem casting it out on my offside), he wants me to go shallower and further back. He recommends 2.495, 6.830 tips, and .76 dft. I'll give it a go today and see what happens...
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@londonskier One way or another, it sounds like you need more ski tip in the water on your off-side, but that can be accomplished a number of ways, most affecting the on-side too. So what is going on with the Mapple's current on-side?
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I skied a day with AM April 1. I had not really skied yet this year, but he set the ski up based on what he saw (I am on a 68). No idea what the settings are -- I need to measure it so I can have a baseline. First day in the course yesterday since April 1. Ski was awesome on both sides -- won't be changing anything for now. Gets huge angle out of the ball and holds it remarkably to the next ball. Love the way it is skiing at this point.
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@londonskier - reason I asked is that I had a similar problem with the Mapple, bought it at his place, had it set up on site, but the rubber boots I was using then and there were going to be replaced by (I was hoping for the Apex boots, but hey, what a weird setup that was!) so I settled for Stradas.

Now measuring DFT to the lower stitching of Stradas as recommended puts your feet further back on the ski compared to rubber boots (I think).

Moved both boots one hole forward and bam! sharp turns and tons of angle both sides of the course, just as my first experience on the ski.

It did not have any negative impact onside either.

I´ve emailed Andy regarding boot placement and wich way is more suitable to veer from factory

29.5" setting.

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I just took a set with the numbers I posted above and WOW! The ski now casts out without effort and holds it's speed all the way back to the wakes. Give those settings a try @londonskier and report back.
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@londonskier Andy set mine up but when I back to the UK cold water it was not quite the same, ski feels pretty good at the moment went back to somewhere near default settings, my settings at the moment binding 29.5 fin length 6.840 depth 2.503 dft .770, need to be on the front foot from the very start and it works well.
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@londonskier I think you are on the right track with needing to move your weight more over your front foot. The Mapple has more rocker than usual in the last eight inches of the tail (note how the fin block is sitting in a molded flat spot in the rockered tail section). Your Strada has a flatter tail than the Mapple, and its flat section under-foot is further back on the ski than most. These design differences support your experience that the Mapple needs a more weight-forward technique than the Strada you are used to.

 

However, getting more over the front of the ski may increase the ski's tendency to over-turn when you "crank it", so I'd also try moving your fin back .005" - .010". This will give the ski more feel by increasing the effort needed before it over-turns, and as an added bonus, it will slow down the edge change a hair, gaining back some of the width that gets lost when skiing in cold water.

 

I agree with @Stevie_Boy's recommendation to try the stock wing setting of 8° as this will make it easier to get over the front of the ski, but more wing tends to reduce width in cold water, so play with moving your fin back before moving on to experiment with more wing.

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I was able to ride a 66.75" for a few sets. Loved the pull out, glide, gate, cast, and turn into 1. (LFF skier) The on side turn was not a "ripper" but generated a lot of useable angle. As with you guys my problem was on toe side. I have a nasty habit of unloading early and sitting back a bit. The ski doesn't like this.

 

I liked a lot of things about the ski, but I would have to get on it in the off season and spend time to get comfortable on it. Unfortunately, it's June...

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@londonskier, I moved from Strada to Mapple, same size as you have. Similar skiing level. What worked for me was front boot (and back) (hardshell) slightly BACK. Currently 29 1/4 from inside of the boot. Not sure why, but it works much better for me like this than 29.5 from outside of the boot. Otherwise everything stock except fin slightly forward, 0780. Could be me. Will bring it up with Andy in a few days time. Measurement from outside or inside makes a big difference so I don't know what is better.

 

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@patmaster , seems like you are about 29" from outside of boot, Where as most guys here are saying go Forward. So now I am a little confused to say the least, but I think I will try forward first. Which Strada were you on, did you try the 2013 Carrot?
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@gmut -- I will try to measure it all this week. I do know that my front binding is 30 inches DFT, which is further ahead than I have skied a ski in a long, long time. I am 6ft, 195lbs (give or take 5lbs). The ski is working extremely well on both sides of the course.
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I'm 185 lbs on the 66.75. Stradas are 1/8" forward of stock. Fin is all stock except dft is at .82. I love the ski, but you do have to get up over the front. Something I've always struggled with but I'm working on it and getting better. Ran 35 yesterday, earliest I've ever done that.
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@jedgell I'm 190-195 on the 66.75, and if I get on the front too much I stuff the tip and the ski stops. Maybe its just a matter of degree, but I feel like I need to really get it cast out and in front of me, especially on my offside. Andys numbers I posted at the top of this thread helped quite a bit with the edge change/cast out.
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@londonskier give the mapple 6-10 sets, resisit the urge to get back on your old ski, I found the more you ski on it, the more you adjust, initially my offside was not so good, now it,s all coming together, be patient in the turn and it will reward you.

Regards

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2 sets today on the 66.75. Just ran back to back 28s. From the centerline to the ball line, it's the best ski I've ever ridden. Coming off the 2nd wake, it gives nothing back to the boat on either side and just goes outbound. First set I felt like I was falling off the tail going into my onside turn. But every pass that sensation lessened. Honestly, I didn't like it all that much the first set. But the second set was honestly the best(technically) I've ever skied. Rider in the boat told me he'd never seen me lean and turn like that. hell, I wasn't even trying. All I was doing was blocking the pull of the boat. 6.835, 2.512, .772 binding at 29.5 to outside heel on reflex. We'll see how I like it over the next 6-8 sets. The A3 is probably less effort behind the boat, but with the settings I'm on it doesn't go outbound like this.

 

Mueller commented that he wondered if a skier with double boots would feel the same roll out off the 2nd wake, with the way Andy skis and designs skis. There may be some validity to that thought.

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Agree with Shane about the space created from 2nd wake out. I saw more room in front of 1 ball than on any ski I can remember. This may contribute to some of the issue with it coming back in. "I have a lot of room, I'll just go easy"... and then not move it out as strongly as it should be to set up the turn.
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@ShaneH If you really want to wake up the ski, go closer to Andy's settings for this ski! 6.820,2.50,.780. The tail measurement you have is fine but I think you will like the more responsive ski with a bit less depth and length. Stick with it, Shane! We want you on Team Mapple!!
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@ShaneH - Great description of the ski characterstics. Once I tried the revised settings that Andy sent me (see the second post), the ski came alive. I feel like the ski rolls out without any effort or input as you describe (and I am on double boots- front reflex, rear D3). Another thing that strikes me is how the ski keeps the speed from the apex back to the wake. I just ran a 28, a few 32's, and my first shot of the year at 35, and the ski seemed to perform better as the rope shortened. Can't wait to get back to the lake tomorrow and get some more sets in on it.
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M6 is the greatest ski ever under my unskilled feet.

 

Confer with AM for changes, might want to try less depth initially though. It’s hard to blow out the tail on this ski.

 

Initial settings on my 67/AM were .781/2.501/6.837/8 Reflex FB 29 5/8

 

KLP suggested longer, back, & maybe shallower to keep tip down on onside. So went to .770/2.490/6.860/8. It perhaps kept the ski more level through the turns but shot out too far in front out of the offside and thus tip up into onside pre-turn/AM. Although at these settings, still the ski created tons of width & space with great turns.

 

Changed to .785/2.500/6.840/9, Reflex FB 29 3/8, best yet, ski stays under me, great width both directions off 2nd wake, rolls on edge smoothly and progressively, crisp, symmetrical turns, maintains speed through turns; overall an easy ski to ride and create lots of space.

 

Regarding fin length & DFT, the ski does not seem that finicky.

 

Keep creating space, it performs better each time.

 

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Set up well the ski does create more space in front of the ball than I've had in a long time and it does so with less input from me. Andy attributed this to the speed of the ski. To me it felt more like the ability of the ski to hold angle and cast outbound. Probably both are relevant. Can't wait until I get a little healthier and can push more.
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For me coming off the Strada I didn't feel any more speed, if anything it might be a little slower. Or at least it feels tht way. But if you maintain decent handle control the width and space it generates is awesome. Never felt anything close to that on the Strada. Very forgiving also.
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@londonskier, Andy confirmed that 29.5 (or as close as possible) is the way to go. I find the factory fin settings work very well, but slightly prefer 0780 dft and 9 degree wing angle instead 8. Pretty good explanation on how to use dft to tune the ski is on Mappleskis website. Ski well, most high end skis are really good, but it is hard to beat Mapple team in customer service!
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Andy had me move the fin forward just a touch to keep the ski from pushing back on me at the finish of the turn. I'm currently at 6.835, 2.500, .779. And it's being boxed up to go back to @teammalibu . I'm sad. I'll miss you, baby.

 

Time to get out my checkbook!

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@gregy I've never paid full price for a ski. Gotten em at a discount or free. I will write a check for this ski right now. Everyone who saw me on it said they only saw the bottom of the ski going right angles to the boat path. Quickly. That said, as with any ski, it's not going to be for everyone. For me, it allowed me to fix something. Now, I'm wanting to see if what I learned over the last week will translate to my existing ski.
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@shaneh the 6.0 is definitely on a short list of skies I want to try. I'd like to have a new ski either late this summer or start of next season. If you get one please keep us informed. I really like the idea of having AM to back you up with support if needed. I liked to end up with something that is easy to ski, forgiving of weight changes (mistakes) and at least moderately low effort.
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