MNshortliner

Have you considered bolting a 2x10 onto the carriage of the lift. Then you could step over the side of the boat and on the plank to hook up your cover.

@swbca When you where installing your new perfect pass where you cycling the ignition on and off quite a few times? Every time you turn the key the fuel system pressurizes so I would look from the fuel lines to the fuel rails and if it is as strong as you say it is, it should be obvious.

So I threw on my Darth Vader limited edition battle vest and my silky smooth Imperial Guard underwear, got a Padawan haircut, drove my brand new Ski Nautique Yoda edition, 1 of 1, all the way down here, and you’re telling me this is the new R2 D3?

Good luck with getting her home. That is a sweet looking boat.

@Stevie Boy change that to wake surfing and you have a winner.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/968895806978011/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A559291e9-417d-4072-babd-0d6e48e0f0dc Hope this link isn’t to long. 1996 Flightcraft in Prior Lake, Mn. $15k

“You’re gonna have to use that Dawn dish soap over there and this ski here to help me pry these shorts off”

I think the best time to change stuff up is from your first run of the season. Not having skied for a couple months you don’t have that muscle memory engrained in your body. Once you get that muscle memory back it is skiing uphill against the wind to try and change things.

Also try some different line lengths. At full rope length (75’) I don’t think any wake from any manufacturer will be nice but between 15 off, 22 off, and 28 off the wake will change drastically.

Malibu Response and Response LX have great wakes but are firmer than others. Also they can be had for almost $10k less than a comparable Nautique or Mastercraft with similar hours. With Zero Off and early 2010’s! There is a reason those boats were not changed for 15 years.

Like @JBB said SKWAL is water skiing down a mountain

Might look like some of the skiing from a couple of the members here.

@BraceMaker yes I understand this. Just pointing out another option that could be possible depending on his trailer construction. I try to think outside the box.

Any way you could just cut off the extra foot of the 3”x3” tubing and move the coupler back and rebolt it on? Depends on the construction of the trailer. But I had a trailer that the bow of the boat was about 4’ from the rear of the vehicle. I didn’t need to shorten anything but remember it sat a ways back from the truck. One trailer I have now I believe the boat sits about 18” or so from the back of my vehicle.

@jpwhit This is the impeller puller I have. It is not designed to grab anything but the rubber core and dig its claws into the rubber to remove the impeller. I don’t see how you could get to the back of the impeller to bypass the rubber and get the hooks onto the back side of the metal. In the vise I had 2 vise grip needle nose pliers locked on and it did not budge while giving it a good “yank”. That’s why I ended up cutting it out. @oldjeep i also have probably 5 impellers laying around and in boats from pulling them and installing new ones. All look new and great for back ups.

Reading stories like this make me sick to my stomach. I know in some states the people on the lake get to make the rules for that lake but that just doesn’t make sense to me. I bought a used slalom course from a guy in Wisconsin that said he used to use it all the time until the lake association put on a no wake zone effective from 6pm to 9am. Prime waterskiing times for morning and evening. Further, he said only the locals abided by this “Rule” because people trailering to the lake didn’t give a $h@t about the only lake in the area have extra rules...

@cougfan i like how you can hear the prop still spinning after they beach it. Reminds me of the exact same noise of those toy powered motor boats I played with as a kid when you take them out of the water.

@oldjeep the shaft of the water pump and the impeller where stuck together. The hooks on the impeller puller would just “slip” on the rubber. I posted this to maybe help someone out in the future. Once I decided to cut it out, it was out in about 30 minutes not really a big deal. I don’t plan on pulling the impeller every year and leaving it out.

Had a really tough impeller on a V-drive that wouldn’t budge. Last time I changed it was probably 3-4 years ago, this boat doesn’t get used but maybe 15-20 hours a year. Impeller still looked pretty good, no missing fins. I have an impeller puller but that did not work. Ended up taking the water pump off the fly wheel to work on it in a vise. Tried letting penetrating oil sit over night and still did nothing. Put the pump in a vise to pull with 2 Vise Grips and still stuck. Also hit it with a hammer and punch on the inside of the impeller core but that did not break it loose. So I ended up using a wood chisel to cut slices down the rubber of the impeller and removed all the rubber off the core. I did not have any short thin saws-all blades so cut down a shorty with a regular tin snips. Carefully cut trough the core about 80-90% thru the brass so not to hit the splined shaft. Split the core of the impeller with a hammer and screw driver and it popped right off. After the core came off I inspected the splined shaft and could not find one mark on it from the saw blade. I did use some anti seize on the shaft but after a couple of years it may not keep it from doing this again next time.

Could you post a video of your skiing? The reason I ask is because for years I would start to get some lower back issues now and again throughout the season, then, this year I changed posture/technique and have not had any lower back issues at all. I really exaggerated pushing my hips up and shoulders back which allows you to keep your back very straight.

It can’t really help you but my pylon moves and I looked to tighten it but it just goes through the floor then into a built in fiberglass “cup” and then one bolt through the cup and pylon. Not the best design I would say but is your pylon mounted and same way? Maybe I can get a pic this next week. It’s in a 2012 RCB.

I have some 2017 Radar Profiles on a 2018 D3 NRG and all the holes line up perfect.

I don’t think your situation involves the damper plate but not 100% sure. Like I mentioned before, give it some power in reverse then hit it like you were pulling a skier and see if the clunk reoccurs.

I broke a damper plate on my wake boat years ago. Did all the work myself and has been going strong since (another 150 hours or so). Not really hard just need to unbolt the tranny from engine, remove shaft coupler and tranny linkage, support engine and slide the two apart. My situation there was no warning signs. After it broke you could hear a little rattle noise when you put it in gear and tried to drive forward but not much. The welds on the splined collar broke free of the damper plate.