alex38

I use a Kodak zx5 myself and friends pop on whatever they have: go pros, point and shoot cameras with video too,http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TYgDYcwd1v0

@wish any worries about the handle hitting it?

Ski dock design does look tight and simple, may get one and tweak it a little, @ed obermeier yes that works too with 41 section, I originally used switch section at other end of rope but like the mountain climbing sling a little better

I made a homemade mount similar to ski dock design for my nautique, removed switch section, added mountain climbing sling to pylon with carabiner... Rope changes are fast, real fast, and allows to tighten up interface with mount for better centering (more zoom), used a rubber "joiner" between mount pad and pole for extra dampening, may have some pics and video around here somewhere....

I know 2 New Englanders real well that love it there, Tom H. And Adam C. Freakin ski bums, wish I could do it.

Oneil anything, but I have a hyper freak 1.5 mil is the bomb, turns 65 into 78 and 75 into 82 I rarely ski without it

I agree with Horton (always a good idea) and I have adopted his measurement system as well: a 12" notch on plate from back of front boot, major time saver.

winter in new england.... 6 months of dry skin and boogers

im northeast, but been out west a few times, utah seems inexpensive and unbelievable, of course if you go to so cal you could get a set in on a lake and then drive to mammoth for 8 ft of powder in the same week (done it)

what region?

in reading these posts i realize that i refer in feet "off" and meters "on", which is weird in and of itself, not a big whoop until im trying to explain it to someone that does not ski. maybe ill start asking for my rope length in meters "on"-will definitely throw some people off!

actually was less work for me to just move to a lake that didnt need an accu-sink ha! but seriously they are kinda cool if you get them set up properly.

agreed, great idea too for fin!

my tournament avg (ranking) is like 91.5 with tournament best of 93.5 and looking to get to 97 (or even 96.5) next season. I have learned alot about fin settings but have learned way more by not tweaking much. I skied with a pro (off and on but as much as possible) that taught me about analyzing adjustments, ideal fin setings, how to make them. Also taught me alot of good technique as well. I had a D3 for years that i felt like i couldnt get dialed and I have worked hard on technique to get it to like me at 32 off. In october I went way out of my comfort zone and got a brand new leftover 2012 A2 (early christmas from wife!) I had stock settings, and a slightly different setting recomended by Adam Caldwell. Before I took a ride on this ski, I took every bit of set up knowledge I had and set the fin up at stock with my caliper IT TOOK 2 HOURS, no lie. felt great and ran like 3 at 32 off in the first and second set. Then I set it to Adams recomended #'s (not much different and he does have experience with this ski thru 39 off) THAT TOOK ANOTHER HOUR, 3rd set blasted thru 32 (after a bunch of 28s) on first attempt then got 5 then ran it again then got around 3ball @35 twice. I will not touch this fin again, maybe to check it, but thats about it, ski is awesome but i feel like i wanted to be sure on settings before riding, and i sure dont want to waste the time it took me to get it measured right while on the water or in a boat. could never trust a measurement like that unless a pro skier was involved

http://www.usplastic.com/?clickid=topnav yeah, U.S. Plastic will only work with pvc portable style course, however, we took one reinforced the center arms with extra pvc and used a stainless steel mainline to make it more durable and last longer. us plastic will have all the tubing, fittings and clamps needed, look under tubing polypropylene... the rest is putting it together

me and a friend built one from scratch once, i think it was american palstics where we got everything, fittings, clamps, and hose all has to jive together, ill poke around the sites see if anything jogs my memory for sizing but it was a while ago

My friend went from an old beat up 68 in f1 to a 68 in vice.... Major improvement, like a pass and a half in a season and looking like another pass for next season weather permitting

when i was learning to ski (shortline) and was going to horton lakes, dr horton used to always tell me to "pull thru both wakes". this would help me get wide and early but also helped me "seek" or "develop" a strong position thru the wakes... so I could "pull thru both wakes" (not alot of people say pull anymore fyi) a good shock absorber does not bounce, it actually exerts quite a bit of force in return for the last couple years Ive been going for hips out as far as possible, shoulders back, chest out from start to finish, from once im up to when i drop to shorten, thru the wakes I attempt to PIN my elbows to my vest with arms straight, bent arms thru the wakes makes me crash this spring i was warming up with a little freeskiing, and i just happened upon this crazy position thru the wakes that is hard for me to describe; once the ski is pointed across course I "fall" back or lean away from the boat, with my hips up, arms straight, shoulders back i was finding this super-leveraged position that could not be disrupted by any wake. felt like i was arching my back a little more? i picked up on it by watching video of john travers and austin abel, i took this position to the course and it was sick so my humble advice is to find the position, practice it on dryland with a rope and a tree, try a few turns and crossings outside the course, and the only other thing i can think of is a freeski drill where my coach used to make me pull (no one says this anymore) as far out to the side of the boat as humanly possible and stay there, forces skier to hold the same position needed to blast thru wakes. good luck, dont you ski with some dude that gets into 39? he should be able to help too

Oh yeah! I always get that mixed up, yes just pivoting or rotating rear boot is all I'm doing, and I'm RFF but have never tried pivoting the front foot.

after all the tournaments were done I tried some rear boot cant, my rs1's can pivot quite a bit, rear foot is almost all the way (not sure of degree or angle), couldnt notice a huge difference skiing, maybe a hair better on-side? didnt seem to compromise off-side either.

amazing summer, no pbs, but increased my ranking by like 1.5 points, tons of skiing with awesome people and tournaments, then started to experiment with a 2012 A2 and was getting to mid 35's (my avg good pass) by 3rd set, best "new ski" or "change" I've ever experienced, major fun.

a few tips: Seth Stisher has a bunch of freeskiing drills if you can find them. OM skier Adam Caldwell used to freeski alot, he would say always make sure your free hand in the turn stays behind your thigh until it gets to the handle-don't reach for it. Another OM skier Tom Henderson once told me (when freeskiing) carve on edge off the wake all the way back to the wake-this was one of the most effective drills I used-really translates back to the corse. M3 skier Marc Deltergo always had me do "pendelums" go out wicked wide, lean like crazy thru the wakes and glide past the boat, wait for boat to catch up and repeat.

we like to tell our newbies to "spray the red buoys" which gets them to understand the rythm, time and space of the course, then we wait, they usually come up and say "I think I can get around them!" We tell them to go for it, then we take it from there, usually just have to work on timing and going thru the wakes properly. we like to work on "change of direction" rather than turns, and "proper position thru the wakes" rather than pulling, pretty good success rate as of late.

Looking for a PP Multi-line display to fit a 2005 SN 196