BobF

@jackq I think it depends on the handle. Some handles tend to propeller one way or the other based on how they are strung. I've found that since I started using a head protector on my handle, no more rope twist. btw, I also can't help but unwind if needed while waiting for a start!

Interesting observation on the fin in the D3 clamp. Was trying to shorten to 6.830 per Bruce's advice. With my current dft, I can only get it down to 6.870. The top of the front fin cutout seems to be hitting the clamp's front tightening screw. Will probably notch the top of the fin at some point, but for tomorrow's sunup set this is it. Update: Much better with less tip! Now at 2.516 and 6.870. Feeling a little narrow offside at my hardest pass (could be me - today is 7 days in a row). If the weather holds out, going to try shorter and a little deeper for a coupla sets.

@Than_Bogan and @Bruce_Butterfield Thanks for the responses! @Ed_Johnson DFT the same, as well?

@Than_Bogan OK, here it comes... Got my CG fin yesterday and mounted it up on my ARC. I set the CG same as my old fin less .030 dft. Settings are now 2.515, 6.913, .718 (std wing @ 7). Took it out early this morning and immediately noticed a MUCH better onside turn. Fast, sharp, but still in control. Very early coming into the offside. Previously, the ARC had better offside turns than onside for me. The one issue I'm going to have to address (either me or the ski) is that now the offside turn seems to be stopping and throwing me out the front. Also noticed slack line coming into that side. Thinking of either taking out some tip or moving forward a bit. Would welcome thoughts from those that have had success with the CG already.

@kylegansel The wally's are attached just like a standard buoy.

Woohoo! Got mine today, also. @Ali, mine was order 232. Now, to go back out this evening for a second round, or not...

Our lake is 1750 corner to corner. We have a 6 ball course, and it's a quick setup but doable. Need a decent driver to make it work. You don't have time to fix both your hair and shorts, gotta pick one. :)

If the question relates to "is the rudder pointed the direction I want before hitting it"... Every ski boat I've ever driven is about a turn and a half from center when locked all the way to one side. Out of habit, I center before starting by turning all the way right, and then back 1 1/2 to center. From there, you can make a minor adjustment based on which way you'd like to go during the start.

So a couple of years ago, I stopped getting the giant, peeling callouses in my palms. It just kind of happened. I miss them.

Arsky Lake. Was lucky enough to be able to help teach 3 more first-timers to ski and wakeboard this past weekend. Barefooted for the first time in three years - fell hard enough to rip a bf suit to shreds. Also, so much slalom that I can hardly lift my arms today. Good times.

Everybody likes to be liked, right? lol. I do just want to talk fins and skis. Just want to make sure that it's clear that I'm not complaining about waiting for one. (planning on flagging my own post as off-topic :) )

Ok, I've gotten some weird dislikes on comments before, but this time I just gotta ask. @jcmccavit?

Anyone get a non-Denali CG fin shipped from the second batch yet? Really looking forward to trying it.

I usually hesitate to give advice on this forum since there are those that are clearly more qualified than I, but I see something done often by myself. It looks to me like you're dropping your inside shoulder into the turn, causing your upper body to dump in, causing the ski to stop. This may be caused by something earlier in the process (too much speed coming into the ball, handle separation, etc), but when I do it, my best coach in the boat (my son) just tells me to exaggerate keeping my reaching arm up. I mean really up. Doing this helps keep my shoulders more level, smooths out my turn, and helps transition from the turn to the pull more smoothly.

Related side note: Is this chart still accurate? I do remember many beards ago that there was a change between letters/numbers and what they meant.

Patiently awaiting arrival of the CG fin like a kid at Christmas... @Ed_Johnson - I plan on using my current settings for the regular fin and transferring to the CG. Did you leave the dft the same as well?

Amen, brother! That attitude is a lot more fun for everyone, and I practice it regularly.

Gray hare

ok, ok, take my money already! Can not wait to try this in my ARC.

The O'brien piezoelectric vibration damper! Complete with led light to let you know it was working.

Another consideration is to use antihistamine eye drops. I started using the Wally mart version of Zaditor drops at certain times of the year after finding that something in our lake was aggravating my eyeballs. Super effective.

That'll buff right out. :)

Thanks for the advice @Horton and @Dirt! Will go factory and apply Jay's book as needed.

Hi All, I pulled the trigger on a ski upgrade, and I'm looking forward to getting this season going! Moving from a D3 Quest to an ARC. I don't change skis often, and it's been my experience that I take a while to settle into/tweak a new ride. My usual process is to spend about a week thinking about all possible combinations/permutations of old, new, and others settings to come up with something. My personal settings have always leaned toward the deeper/shorter side and the ARC definitely has recommended settings that are shallower/longer than the Quest. Question for you that are more adept at changing skis: Would you recommend starting at factory settings for the new ski, or start by using my current settings for the old ski? Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Love slacklining! A-frames with ground anchors may be the best way to go if you're not using trees or some other sturdy vertical attachment. I remember looking up some calculations regarding how much additional tension a bird puts on a wire when it lands. It's a lot.