New Reflex Supershell with R Style Rear Evaluation

[jimski]

@Fehlindra I did think of that but instead I added two more inserts to the ski behind the rear ones this gives me a 1/4 more travel back. I will give it another try. I will have to add four more inserts for the rear boot or order a new plate if it needs to go back any further

[Fehlindra]

I think i gonna use low profile hexagon screw under the release bolt and use an very thin wrench in order to tighten the hex screw ( if i need to move the binding towards the rear)

[gregy]

@Fehlindra exactly what I did. Used an old wrench and ground the tips flatter.

 

As I've gotten used to the extra tip sensitity I moved the boots forward a little more so don't need them anymore, might even try moving a little more forward.

[jimski]

Sounds like I'm not the only one with this problem

Is the insert pattern on the 2016 radar more forward thank the 16 to accommodate the new plate ?

[jrs]

You could also reverse the direction of the screw holding the release arm. That would put the nut on the inside away from the screw holding your plate down. You will need to remove a little area in the white heal cup to clear the nut. This will give you room to use the other holes.

[Fehlindra]

not an bad idea but then you decrease the space with 0,1 inch for the screw thats going into ski that i dont know how to solve on the other hand there is a another hole for the release arm if that is used maybe it could free up the last hole but this time maybe some error with the release funktion gonna occur so :) and :/

[Deanoski]

JRS is correct just flip the nut around to the inside, not a big deal.

[gregy]

Cracked my heel cup a few weeks ago. I got my Reflex at H2O Proshop. They got it warrantied for me. I also got them to send me a spare. The new cup has more material removed presumably to allow it to flex more. Looks like the one in Jimski's pics above.

 

 

 

[Ed_Johnson]

Mine cracked in the back and I put Gorilla Super Glue on it, and it has held fine ever since. That was months a go.

[gregy]

I wasn't even thinking about warranty replacement, I was just wanting to

replace it period. Darrin at H2O Proshop took the initiative himself to see if Reflex would warranty it.

[Gar]

I have not had good luck with the thin reflex plates. The rear broke on me in a tournament at 35 off and the front was about to break last week lucky I caught it before another bad fall. The carbon material just isn't thick or tough enough to hold up for me anyway.

[gregy]

@Gar were you using front and rear Reflexes. My front is a G10 plate the vendor recommended it to be stronger. I think the carbon plate was the only choice on my R-Style rear.

[Gar]

Yes I had the white cuff boot on the front and the R-style in the rear both carbon plates from Reflex. I sent an email in to Reflex informing them of what happened and never heard back from them. The G10 is what I went with on both the front and back.

[BlueSki]

Is the Supershell designed to require force to pop into the white heel cup or should it nestle in easily. In other words, does this picture look normal? This is how the boot sits in the binding until a good bit of pressure is applied to get the boot into the cup and the white cup flexes out a bit. I want to avoid the breaks @gregy experienced.

 

[gregy]

@BlueSki it does take considerable force to push the heel down into the cup. I usually do it by hand. My partner prefers to put the boot on then use his weight to force it in. When I cracked the heel cup I took a pretty hard OTF fall.

[BlueSki]

Thanks, I was thinking of your picture when I first put it together.

[Gloersen]

There should be no pressure exerted on the shell's heel from the rear of the horseshoe cup. While there may be some pressure exerted from the toe bars necessitating pushing the heel down; that's by design; however there should be no aft impediment from the cup itself.

 

The cup serves to secure the heel from lateral movement as well as provide a tad heel lift such that the front of the shell places the ball of the foot firmly against the plate (ski).

 

If the cup is interfering with the heel going down into its recess I'd question the setup with regard to the toe bar position, Silvretta release, the whole gamut.

 

Any fore-aft pressure (impediment) exerted by the cup can interfere with the predictability and release of the Silvretta clamp. Having ripped an Achilles from set-up error; thus the advocacy for diligent Reflex setup.

 

Also if there is any kind of resistance from the cup when clamping down the shell you're likely to fracture the cup.

 

Should be visible clearance; pic is without clamp locked in and heel all the way down into cup.

 

 

[mmosley899]

@BlueSki the "Supershell" is made by Roxa Skates as an ice skate boot and the heel is naturally raised by a 1/4" over the front of the boot, so the boot will not fit flat with the front of the toe held down by the bars. Once you step down in the boot and latch the release the boot will flatten out. I have used this shell for two years now, works great for water skiing.

[Deanoski]

All Roller blade and ice skate shells ski better when you heat up the shell and flatten the shell base then you can throw away the heel cup, and the boot will not rock side to side.

 

you will have better balance and be able to move COM even better.

 

Skiers will tweak fins ect all day long and not touch their hard shells to make them work better for waterskiing!

 

they where made for skating

 

skate shells when mounted to a flat surface they become toe high heel low that's why so many skiers use heel lifts on skate shells, it is very simple to heat up the shell clap it flat and let it cool. so you have a flat platform to stand on.

 

if you have not tried it you should!

 

Deano

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Than_Bogan]

@Deanoski Could you provide some more details for the uninitiated? What would I heat it with? How know hot enough? Picture of clamp set up? Assume I'm a moron and walk me through it. Maybe on a separate thread?

 

Or is this already covered in @adamhcaldwell's document on modifying shells? (Embarrassingly, I haven't made the time to study that yet.)

[Deanoski]

Than, Adam did a good job in his Reflex tuning guide! Read it.

 

you can use a heat gun or a convection oven. I use convection oven 275 for 20 min then clamp down boot and use the heat gun to make sure it is hot enough to change the plastic, so the sole will stay flat. it may take 2-3 times to get it flat. the shell plastic has memory so you need to get it hot.

 

I have done 4 this year for friends very easy to do if you have the correct tools.

 

Deano

[bkreis]

@gregy they have totally redesigned the heel cup from those that have them already. the new one makes way more sense in terms of pressure to the release spring.

[londonskier]

My son is an engineer. He told me the heel cup is made by a 3D printer. So if it cracks, just print yourself another!!

 

[gregy]

@bkreis the replacement that I received was different, it had more material removed. You can see it in the pics I posted. The heel cup comes predrilled matching the holes in the base plate so it is where it is. For $33 I bought a second heel cup just in case it breaks again.

 

@Than_Bogan I used a heat gun to flatten out the front of my R-style for clearance from the release but it actually made it more comfortable. The old Reflexes really curve up at the toes. The Supershell is flatter.

 

Boot Performance

[skierjp]

Where do you measure to when measuring for the front boot placement on the Supershell.

[Hboroughs]

I purchased the Supershell system last year and the heel stabilizer on it cracked twice. I know I am not alone in this experience, as some skiers at Okee had the same problem. Reflex tells me they are aware of the issue, and sent me a third heel stabilizer which appears to be a very inexpensive piece of plastic. I love the Reflex system and I used the original system, including the R-style rear boot, for many years before buying the Supershell. But I can't say that I think the new system is better (though I do like the double horseshoe in front), and I certainly don't think it is worth its cost. I did rupture my Achilles in my original system, but can't be sure it wouldn't have happened in another system because it was a strange fall. All in all, I wish I had just stayed on the original Reflex system, which is an excellent binding system.

[Fehlindra]

@Gloersen i guess the drilled holes are for fast waterdrain?

[Gloersen]

@Fehlindra - just thought since holes are in the fin, should place holes in the shell; it's a slot shell.

 

In case you weren't kidding, its to soften it a tad,the horseshoe cup was trimmed down laterally as well; trying to dampen the effect on roll just a bit.

[Gloersen]

@skierjp - at the back of the shell just under the release mounting block as with a conventional Reflex boot.

[skierjp]

Thanks Peter, that's what I thought.

[gregy]

My Supershell cracked at the middle buckle. Just under a year old. I drill a hole to stop the crack from propagating anymore. Think I'll put something under the buckle to spread out the stress concentration when I get a new boot.

 

 

[Deanoski]

@gregy your next boot should be the blk cuff or white cuff classic boot, its the boot more high end slalom skier use.

[gregy]

@deanoski unfortunately my feet are to big for the blk/white cuff. I really like the Supershell.

[Fehlindra]

That dint happend to me but if its an upcomming and recurring problem this that ive done maybe can help out others just relocate the buckets and more back and downwards and use the lower hole in the bucket