jackski

@ DW - Performer RPM heads and manifold. Now I've got a true 9.49 : 1 compresion ratio. The heads are 64cc with the 180cc intake ports so it keeps the power down low. Stayed with the stock (marine) cam for that reason also. Had to port & match the manifold/heads. This doesn't give you more hp but does make it easier to tune.(no flat spots). I wanted to keep the total cost down below $ 2,500 so I stayed with the edlebrock carb and stock exhaust. Will get tuned exhaust probably next year. Does the ZZ4 idle OK?

I just put some some aluminum in 95 Response (head/manifold). Pretty cheap upgrade as the block was just redone last year. 320+ hp, Z box - all is well.

You can often pinpoint a leak or source of the sound by using a 3/8" or 1/2" dia tube 1.5-2 feet long as a stethoscope.

@ slalom frog - I don't get into the water to crank it up. I never over tension my course,so when it's loose and I want to tighten it I grab a 55 and pull it up to the cable and winch. I first kneel and then lay on the platform with my arms in the water cranking it. I have my cable & winch 4' below, so when I reach down I only need about 2' of slack which is about right not to over tension it. If I know a big rain is coming I'll loosen it, but if I don't, my light anchor at one end takes care of it.

@ slalom frog- cheapest boat winch I can get. 500 lb capacity on sale usually at Princess Auto for $ 15. Lasts 3-4 years in the water until it rusts out.

I 've had a floating course for 18 years in our lake and have tried different thing. I know what works best for me, but may vary in different situations. I use concrete blocks for anchors at both ends but account for the 40% loss of weight in water. I use lots of weight one end, about 350lb and less on the other. I can't remember how much, but I adjusted it so when the water rises quickly as it can in our lake, 1ft per day of rain, the lighter anchor will drag without damaging the course. I also have subbouys 5 feet below and I leave a section of rope attached that I sink with a small weight for the winter. In the spring I use a hook to pull it up and attach the mainline. For tensioning I use a cheap winch that is attached to the mainline at the 55's. I have a similar circumstace to you in that I am shallow in one end and deeper in the other. I found that it is important to have at least a 3 to 1 scope in the line, I'm actually about 4 to1. The 4 to 1 doesn't sink the 55's when tensioned well. Obviously, to get the same scope, each end has different rope lengths. If it's windy enough to bend the course I don't ski.

First ski was 1 set I got in last saturday, then we had rain and or wind. Hope tommorow is better. 1st set was with an additional 80 hp in my 95 Response, that was nice. Z box installed today waiting to try that.

@Crashman, you wouldn't be saying that if you lived up here in the north all your life.

Going to hard shells was like getting an adjutable fin box back in the 80's. There is a huge learning curve due to the vast adjustability. It usually takes quite some time to find your personel setup unless you're totally normal, or is that abnormal ?

The man could balance a glass full of your favourite beveridge on his head on that pass. Wow.

@usaski1, remember that the best way to solve this kind of problem is the process of elimination. Clean your hull first, check it off, test, do the next. Kind of like adjusting fins, one movement at a time if you want to know why. (although regular maintenance items as cleaning the flame arrestor should be done anyway). It would be easier to make suggestions once told us what you eliminated.

Road Race motorcycles in the summer, hockey and ski in the winter, do weights all year round

Done

Working in the gym on core strength thinking of drinking less Scotch. (just thinking of it)

9100, 9200 ltd, 9400, 9700, Nano traditional. I tried others too but kept comming back. Ithink all of them were a step forward although of varying degrees. Always took a little change in style for each one. I skied the 9100 last year again for fun but it's not as good as the Nano. It's a toss up between the 9700 and Nano but I was skiing hurt last year. PB - 9700 2 @ 38 (toury)

Ham always has the best ideas

That's what I was looking for, thanks Wish !

I worded that badley. What I'm concerned about is, I have 2 courses on a medium size lake. Each is protected from one side. During foul weather, the waves and wind get pretty big and pound from the unprotected side. I'm wondering if there is a greater possibility of damage to my floating course due to the weight of the ball ? Ed?

Maybe a silly question, but, if the ball displaces so easily when water fillled, does it move around a lot when there is a little rough water or wind ?

Make sure north points up in all magnets .

I clean mine in the water before I take them out and once in the middle of the summer. No chemicals just a hand scrub brush. They come out almost like new if you don't let them get too dirty. I do it from an aluminum boat so I don't have to bend over. I get 2 years from red/orange and 3-4 from yellow (go figure). Never paint any more.

I'll plant the thought tonight John. Thanks

Yeah, nice review John. I'm hoping it will change my wife's mind so we can go. Good comments about the lack of bugs, snakes etc. , that goes a long way with some.

@ texas6 It appears that "looks really smart" may be as close as she she's going to get to it.

jefflyman My plate had a vertical leg mounted to the transom and a horizontal leg about 9" wide and 4-5" long. I didn't measure the angle, but I'm guessing about 2-3 deg downward tilt compared to the hull bottom. I took off the drain plug fitting in the centre bottom of the transom and mounted the vertical part of my plate flush with the transom. I put a large bolt through the drain hole and also used the 3 small screw holes that were there from removing the drain plug fitting. I just needed a little lift. I only used it for the one season because our water is now back to normal. There are no left over signs that it was ever there.